Blogging Elsewhere!

I've been MIA for quite some time now! I stopped blogging for awhile, but recently have started back up! I still work at the makeup store called Facade, located in Houston's Uptown Park and am now taking care of all our Social Networking sites--facebook, twitter, and of course, a beauty blog! To follow my posts, please check out http://facadebeauty.wordpress.com !

The Newest Makeup Artist at Facade in Houston's Uptown Park

Great news everyone! I finally have found a great fit for myself with a new job! I had been on several interviews but until now I had not found a place I felt I would be truly happy.

Although I will no longer be providing hands on skin care services like micro-dermabrasion, chemical peels, or even facials, Facade retails reputable skin care products. I am excited to learn more about these lines so I can effectively recommend the best products to you. I will never recommend a product I don't truly believe in- and if I've gotten you hooked on Rhonda Allison's line, that is perfectly fine! My opinion of her extraordinary products had not changed, and I would be happy to continue recommending products from within her line if you wish. Your results and comfort level are more important to me than my commission from retail sales.

Facade is a fabulous Skincare and makeup boutique. Not only do they retail wonderful products, but also specialize in on-location or in-store makeup applications for weddings or other special occasions, as well as offering makeup lessons and seasonal updates. If you've always wondered how you can achieve the best makeup look at home or need help perfecting eyeliner, choosing the vest red lipstick for you... This is the place to come!

I am also excited to report that I plan to continue offering threading and facial waxing services-so those of you who have been faithful customers of mine for these services in the past will be happy to discover how close my new location is to the old one!

Thank you all for the continued support! I hope to begin updating a little more regularly here soon. I apologize for the unexplained hiatus.

Giving Yourself Facials at Home

We've had previous posts discussing products and how they work---so if you've taken my advice and re-vamped your skin's wardrobe with products will really make a difference--you're ready for an at-home facial!

At home facials could be done once a week, every other week, once a month, or as often as you remember. I used to love doing at-home facials with my girlfriends when I was in high school--it's pretty fun to do with girlfriends during a ladies night in.

If you'd like a relaxing ambiance, go ahead and turn on some soothing music. If you don't have actual spa music try some Norah Jones---she's soothing and soulful, and certainly helps me relax. You can also usually find spa sounds CDs near the candles in Target and/or WalMart. The brand "LifeScapes" usually has some really good ones. While you're there you can pick up a few candles if you'd like a little mood lighting...

Products you will need:

Cleanser, Exfoliant, Mask, Toner, Moisturizer

Optional Products: 

Eye Makeup Remover, Treatment Serums, Eye Cream, Lip Balm

Items you may need:

A sink full of hot water or a steamy shower (to steam and open the pores of the face)
cotton swabs (for removing eye makeup, or for gently removing blackheads)
cotton balls or cotton rounds (for applying toner)
thinly sliced cucumbers or strawberries (to cover your eyes while the mask sits and impart moisture to the delicate eye area)

The Process:

1.) Examine the skin. Take a close look at your skin and note it's current condition. Are there any flaky patches that might need extra exfoliating or moisture? Are there any areas that are particularly red and irritated that maybe you should avoid? Tender blemishes? If you have more than one kind of mask or other products to choose from, you can make your decisions based on what you see now.


2.)Use cotton swabs and/or cotton balls along with eye makeup remover and carefully remove any makeup.

3.) Run luke-warm water at the sink and gently splash some onto your face. Use about a nickle sized amount of cleanser in damp hands and rub your hands together a little to make it lather a bit (if it's a kind that lathers). Evenly distribute the cleanser over your entire face.  Use your fingers to massage the cleanser into your skin using small circular patterns. Focus on areas that you feel really need to be cleansed.  Take a little longer than you normally would.

4.) Exfoliate! You have a lot of options here. If your product is a simple scrub, use just a little more than a pea-sized amount of product and distribute it on your face. Use your fingertips to vigorously massage in the grit focusing especially on areas that are rough or flaky and avoiding areas inflamed by acne or otherwise irritated. (follow those same general directions if you're using a home microdermabrasion kit). If your scrub has additional acids like Azaelic, Lactic, or Salicylic Acid-or if it has enzymes like Papain, Bromelain, or Pumpkin-leave it on for about 3-5 minutes to allow the enzymes or acids to further work. Don't leave it on much longer though--you don't want to let it get irritated.  If your exfoliant is NOT a scrub and is purely acid or enzyme-based, it might be able to be left on for up to 10 minutes. Evenly distribute it and let it sit for the recommended time. Read the directions carefully as timing may vary.

5.) Time to get steamy! Either lean over a sink of very hot water with a towel covering your head AND the sink and allow your face to steam for five or so minutes OR you can hop in a steamy shower for the same amount of time.

6.) By now your face should be feeling as soft as butter! But we're not done! If you have a moisturizing serum or other treatment serum (I would NOT recommend using a serum designed to treat acne for this) use it to MASSAGE. The facial massage is one of the best reasons to receive a facial from a professional because most of us aren't patient enough to do it at home. In the spa, this portion usually lasts 8-10 minutes. Use long light strokes over the entire forehead and the cheeks. After that gets boring you can switch to a pinching or kneading type motion...and when that gets tiring use just the tips of your fingers to massage using friction on your forehead (focus on smoothing over any fine lines you may have). Lastly, use your pointer and middle fingers of each hand to firmly massage your temples using tiny circles.  By the way--if you've heard you're supposed to massage or apply products only in an upward motion to avoid sagging--it's not true. First of all---if your skin is stretched upward---and it doesn't snap back all the way---your skin will still sag DOWN. But also, it doesn't really work that way. Unless you're really aggressive with your skin, you aren't likely to make it sag from this---in fact moderate massage helps to FIRM your skin by passively exercising the muscles that contour your face! 

7.) Mask. Distribute an even layer of the mask over your face. If you only have a mask that might be too drying for some areas---know that it's okay to leave a few areas naked! If you have a few different kinds of masks (like one that is moisturizing and one that is drying) you can put one on your T-zone and the other on just your cheeks. If you're using sliced strawberries or cucumbers, place them over your eyes, kick back and relax for up to 25 minutes. If you aren't, you can use this time to paint your toenails, put in a hair mask, buff your nails, or whatever else you'd like to do to pamper and relax---just don't paint the nails on your hands because you're still going to need your hands soon and you don't want to mess them up! Rinse your face clean when the time is up. I usually splash cool water on my face first and try to remove as much as I can that way---then finish removing the rest with a damp washcloth.


8.) Now it's time to tone! If your toner is in a spray bottle, mist your face and neck---if not, moisten a cotton ball or cotton round and apply to your face and neck. Wait a few seconds for it to dry before moving on to the next step.

9.) If you're using any other serums or treatment lotions use it now (this is an appropriate time to use acne products)

10.) Apply your moisturizer. You don't have to overdo it---all of the other steps are going to help your skin really absorb this product and retain the moisture.

11.) Last but not least, it's time to take care of your eyes and lips. Apply eye cream and lip balm and you are done!


Okay I know that was quite a lot to go through, so here's the quick run down:

Remove Makeup

Cleanse

Exfoliate

Steam

Massage

Mask

Tone

Treat

Moisturize

Eye Cream

Lip Balm

Keeping you beautiful (and fresh!) one post at a time.

Kate Block

You Are What You Eat: How Your Diet Affects Your Skin

Myth-busting

       There are so many myths and rumors surrounding how food is related to your skin. Because many people with acne-prone skin also have shiny, oily skin--many people made the seemingly reasonable assumption that rich or greasy foods rendered the skin excessively oily and thus more prone to acne. Using this assumption as a foundation, it seemed logical that the more rich and delicious the food--the more likely it would be to cause a breakout. This led to chocolate becoming a prime suspect as well. 
        These people were ignorant of the coincidental fact that many people crave mood-elevating chocolate when they are under large amounts of stress (which weakens the immune system, and can also cause hormones to produce more oil) or that women may crave it before or during their menstrual period (yet another hormonal imbalance is caused). Through empirical evidence, it is much more likely that the stress or the period are the direct cause of these breakouts-- not the chocolate.

         That said, I'm not saying it's good for your skin (or your body) to load up on all the fried foods, potato chips, and Hershey bars you can get your hands on--I do believe that most things are just fine in moderation--but you can eat your way to glowing skin.

Things to avoid: 

• Smoking and tobacco use have been linked to premature aging. Nicotine contracts and weakens blood vessels and small capillaries which supply blood to the skin and the rest of the body, causing decreased circulation. This deprives the skin vital oxygen, leaving the skin looking yellow-ish or gray and usually quite dull. 
• Consumption of large quantities of alcohol overdilates the blood vessels and capillaries. Over time, this causes tiny capillary walls to burst. This can cause a permanant flushed appearance, tiny red veins to appear on the sides of the nose, and red splotches in the whites of the eyes. Alcohol also dehydrates the skin (and the rest of the body) leaving skin looking dull and dry.
• Smoking and drinking at the same time can be even worse than one on it's own: one causes blood vessels to contract, and the other causes them to dilate, causing them to constantly go from one extreme to the other, and leaving the skin deprived of both oxygen, and water.
• Caffeine dehydrates the skin and body. Plus most people end up becoming dependent on it--consuming large quantities of coffee or energy drinks which can end up becoming a source of empty calories which show up on your waistline.
• Avoid eating too many foods high in sugar or cooked at exteremely high temperatures. This results in a process called Glycation which essentially causes the skin to lose its elasticity, sag, wrinkle, and lead to hyperpigmentation. It can also be extremely damaging to the heart, kidneys, and muscles.
• Those suffering from Rosacea should typically avoid spicy foods and alcohol, as these can offen trigger a flare-up of the condition
• Don't deprive yourself of fats. It serves very important purposes within the body. Women with extremely low body fat percentages develop hormonal imbalances that cause hyperpigmentation and forms of acne. Fats are essential for the absorption of fat-soluble vitamins, and is also used to create the oil that sits on top of the skin as a means of protection and lubrication, especially around the joints.

Foods to Reach for:

Red Pepper, Strawberries, Oranges, Brussels Sprouts, Broccoli, Collard greens, Grapefruit, Canteloupe, Cabbage, and Tomatoes 
These foods are all high in Vitamin C- a valuable antioxidant--it supports the healing process of the body, and promotes collagen production in the dermal layer of the skin--helping to keep the skin healthy and firm.


Sweet Potatoes, Spinach, Carrots, Butternut Squash, Eggs, Cod Liver Oil, Beef or Lamb Liver
All high in vitamin A--another incredible antioxidant--this vitamin is used in high concentrations in the prescription medication Accutane to treat acne. It helps regulate oil production, and also improves the skin's elasticity and thickness.

Catfish, Herring, Salmon, Oysters, Halibut, Trout, Fortified Milk, Egg Yolks
These foods are high in vitamin D--known as the sunshine vitamin, because the skin can naturally make it on it's own when exposed to sunlight. It helps promote healthy and rapid healing of the skin--it also is important in warding off Osteoporosis--weakening of the bones--which in it's advanced stages can cause drastic changes in the bone structure of your face, and spine. If you have fish allergies or prefer to get vitamin D the old fashioned way, and you have an iPhone try downloading the "Vitamin D Sun Timer" which supposedly "calculates the right amount of sun exposure using real time UV index and user provided skin type" so you can get the ideal amount of exposure to synthesize vitamin D on your own, without getting burned. 

Almonds, Cashews, Lean Meat, Oats, Oysters, Pecans, Poultry, Pumpkin Seeds, Whole Grains, and Milk
These are all high in Zinc--which helps control the production of oil in the skin and controls the hormones responsible for causing acne outbreaks.  It is also reduces inflammation associated with acne and expedites the wound-healing process, diminishing risk of scarring. It also has been said to provide relief from the skin disorders eczema and psoriasis. 

Standout Foods:

• Mangoes-contains vitamins B2, B3, and B6 which delays skin aging and gives skin an almost instant healthy glow, increased tone, and hydrated cells. Also provides anti-inflammatory benefits, retains moisture, alleviating dryness, and irritation. It also contains Vitamin C, vitamin E, and Vitamin A.
• Spinach- high in Vitamins A, D, B2 (Riboflavin--which helps repair mucous membranes and body tissues like the skin), B3 (Niacin--helps produce energy from protein, fat, and carbohydrates and promotes clear, even skin), B5 (Pantothenic Acid--detoxifies the body and skin), Folate (promotes healthy DNA replication, which is essential for healthy skin cells), C, E, and K
• Eggs- high in vitamins A, D, and E, as well as Riboflavin, Zinc, and Folic Acid.
• Red Wine- Red wine contains Resveratrol, an antioxidant found in grape skins. Resveratrol is said to help reduce risks of skin cancer, as well as premature signs of aging in the skin like fine lines. Despite the negative affects alcohol can have on the skin, it may be worth indulging for Resveratrol's benefits--just limit yourself to 1 or 2 glasses of vino, making sure to drink a full glass of water in between.
• Shiitake Mushrooms- These particular mushrooms are high in Kojic acid- a fungal metabolic product-that has the ability to block the synthesis of melanin-reducing hyperpigmentation. Consuming 1 Cup daily can help even out skin color.
• Fish Oil- it helps properly lubricate the skin, aids in tissue repair, is known for it's anti-inflammatory benefits--which could be particularly helpful when recovering from a sunburn or acne and rosacea flare-ups.

Some Unfortunate Culprits: 

These foods are not always to blame for problems with skin, but unfortunately some people are more sensitive to their effects than others. If you have tried changing your skin care routine to improve acne, but have been unsuccessful you may want to try limiting or discontinuing your consumption of 

• Wheat- small bumps resembling acne can be a symptom of wheat intolerances.

• Dairy Products- because you are consuming products derived from another animal's milk, you end up ingesting that animal's hormones--which can often cause an imbalance of your own, leading to unusual increases in oil production.

Keeping you beautiful (and fresh) one post at a time!

Kate Block

Radiating Beauty through Health

Part of beauty, in my opinion, is fitness. A healthy, strong body is one of the main things that can help a woman look her best.

Now, I'm not perfect to be speaking about this, but I do have experience with a journey toward health. A little more than two years ago, when my now husband proposed to me I had a long way to go. I knew that I needed to lose a significant amount of weight. Not just so I would look fantastic for my wedding day--but because I knew it was paramount for my health. Being overweight (especially as significantly as I was) sets you up for all sorts of terrible illnesses, and when I said "'til death do us part" I wanted to make sure it would actually be awhile. Since then I have lost over 60 pounds, and then unfortunately regained a bit of it upon our move to Texas and my introduction to all the amazing Mexican food...I've been working on getting back to that point, and then I have about another 40 pounds to go. Not many people will argue that a fit woman is a beautiful woman--but being good to your body can help other aspects of beauty too--including your skin.

One of the very important things with getting healthy is hydration. Our bodies are largely made up of water.  Products that promise increased concentration, higher energy, and a boosted metabolism fly off the shelves and are ordered online in the U.S. every day. You may have even recently purchased a product promising such results---but drinking the recommended quantities of water can provide the exact same benefits. Better still, it's free! I find I drink the most water when it's out of a water bottle as opposed to a glass. I'm not really sure why, but I've learned to embrace it. I rarely buy bottled water (if I do, I'm sure to recycle!) but instead I tote around a reusable BPA-free water bottle, so I can wash it and use it again. (BPA is a chemical used in many plastic food and beverage containers that can leach into the food or beverage it contains and is suspected to cause health problems as a result). I personally use a Kor One hydration vessel. It has a pretty great design, fits a large amount of water---has a wide mouth to allow for ice cubes to fit easily, has a hinged lid that you can't lose, and even has a spot for you to store your own motivational messages. I also like that the company gives a percentage of proceeds to water charities. The bottle is big and can be particularly bulky so another neat option is the Vapur rollup water sack. It's a reusable water "sack" instead of a water bottle--because it is completely flexible, it can fold almost completely flat or be rolled up to fit in your purse---but when full can stand completely upright. This is fantastic for traveling since it takes up virtually no space, and even comes with a little carabiner so you can clip it to a back pack or gym bag. Always having water with you is a great way to ensure you'll drink more of it. Also if regular water is unappealing to you, you can try sparkling water. My husband and I love our SodaStream system. You order your own CO2 cartriges and can create your own sparkling water (or even soda) at home. You can also add cucumber, citrus juice, or fresh fruit to your sparkling water to jazz it up further. Because you're making it at home, it eliminates waste generated from buying glass or plastic bottles or aluminum cans of it in the store--even if you recycle them, energy and resources must be used to recycle them--making it at home and reusing the bottle is much more environmentally friendly.

You are what you eat. I also try to eat as many whole and unprocessed foods as possible. When I cook dinner (which is about 85% of the time) I like cooking "clean". Clean Eating is essentially eating as much organic, unprocessed, and whole foods as possible. That said---I do as much as I can without stressing out about it. But my husband and I typically choose fresh fruits and vegetables (opposed to canned or frozen) as well as fresh cuts of meat and fish, and usually organic whole-wheat varieties of pasta.  I often cook recipes found in Clean Eating Magazine which is a fantastic source of some beautiful recipes that we really love to eat and have become dinnertime staples in our family. Also, since a new issue comes out bi-monthly it keeps us from getting in a rut because there are always new recipes to try.

I've also become a pretty big fan of Bethenny Frankel, who rose to fame from her participation in The Real Housewives of New York City. She is also a natural foods chef and author of books Naturally Thin and The Skinnygirl Dish. I have recently read both of her books and the tips and tricks she presents for losing weight and/or staying thin just simply makes sense. Many of them are things that you already know, but she gives you some practical solutions to make actually doing them easier. 

Bethenny also supports eating what she calls "real food" which falls pretty well in line with clean eating principles. She also has some fantastic recipes including some re-made versions of banana bread, and even cupcakes which are phenomenal. She substitutes your normal refined all-purpose flour with oat flour and most refined white sugar with raw sugar. I'm not saying these dessert recipes are good for you, but if you want something rich or sweet these are significantly better than what you may be used to. A healthy, balanced diet ensures that you have all the vitamins and other nutrients your body needs to replicate cells normally, and actually affects your skin in more ways than you may imagine. My post next week will delve into more specifics on that.

Sweat for success. In addition to eating with your health in mind, exercise is also key. That doesn't mean that you have to be stuck in the gym all the time--but finding some activities you really enjoy--playing sports like soccer or tennis, hiking--even if your "hiking" is just around local museums or parks, bike riding, going out dancing, etc. I do tend to go to the gym because I don't have an incredibly active lifestyle, but I try to change up my workouts to keep things interesting. I also really enjoy Yoga. You can go to gyms or yoga studios on the occasion or even buy a membership if it's something you find you really like.

A few of my favorite things to do to keep things interesting, but also affordable:

If you have "on Demand" try going to the "free" section then the "Health & Fitness" Section and select "Exercise TV". These are free to view and are sub-categorized in types of exercise, duration of the video, sometimes the trainer doing the video, or even the muscle groups the video targets. They are typically available for a few weeks at a time--and then they are replaced with new videos. It's a great way to give some of them a try before committing to buying them--or if you're like me, you won't buy any of them---you'll just do it for as long as it's up and then find a new favorite.

If you are lucky enough to live close to a Lululemon Athletica, a high-quality fitness apparel store, they often host free fitness classes using personal trainers and fitness instructors that have gyms or studios in close proximity to the store. I've been making a point to go to many of them lately. The one here in Houston is located in Highland Village and also co-sponsors a run club that meets on Tuesdays at Brian O'Neills pub in Rice Village. If you click on the link there, you'll see the current schedule of free classes---in the month of November it is a series of Pilates Mat classes on Sundays at 11 a.m.. They end up having a lot of yoga classes or classes that incorporate yoga poses in them. Last week they also threw in an additional "Boot Camp" class on a Wednesday. 

In addition to the beauty benefits that come hand-in-hand with a great-looking body, sweating rids the body of toxins, and the rise in your body temperature also helps with circulation. Taking a nice, cool shower helps to bring the body temperature back down, and further improves circulation--which aids in glowing, fresh skin.

Just kick back and relax. Last but not least, you definitely need rest. If you are exercising, resting is especially paramount. Your body must repair and takes the time you sleep to generate new cells all over the body--muscle cells, and even skin cells. Appropriate amounts of sleep are definitely reflected in your appearance. Mainly, it increases your energy making you seem perkier overall (an energetic woman is much more beautiful than one who is dragging her feet all day), but it also prevents things like those terrible bags under the eyes from forming in the first place. 

Get Relief. Really take time to de-stress. In addition to sleep, it's also very helpful to address levels of stress by taking some time for yourself to do something relaxing that you truly enjoy--reading a book, going for a leisurely walk, baking, painting, etc. Stress greatly affects your body and your skin. Increased levels of stress cause your androgen hormones to spike. Androgens are your male hormones responsible for oil and hair production (thanks guys...ugh). When your androgen levels increase, oil production does too. Not only that, but studies have proven when stress levels are up, your immune system is also not as strong. Combining a weakend immune system with increased oil production is an excellent recipe for breakouts.

Keeping you beautiful (and well) one post at a time!

Kate Block

Regular Post Tomorrow!

I like having a typical time when you can expect to look at my blog and see a post. I had been updating every Thursday---which was interrupted by my vacation to Hawaii, and then last week I procrastinated and updated a few days late. Today is my husbands birthday--which means I have some baking to do! Therefor, I will be making my usual post tomorrow! Sorry if this inconveniences anyone!

Inside My Beauty Bag: My Beauty Picks, and Why I Actually Use Them PART II

Skin Care for Face

I personally have combination skin--I have a tendency to breakout around my forehead (particularly right between the eyebrows like a bullseye!) if I'm not incredibly diligent. Also my cheeks can end up on the dry side if not taken care of properly.

 Cleanser Product Pick: Rhonda Allison Skin Brightening Cleanser

Why I like it: I decided to use this cleanser to help reduce some of the discoloration remaining after previous acne breakouts. When I moved to Houston, the change in climate wreaked havoc on my skin and I was breaking out more than usual. Sometimes it takes awhile for blemishes to heal completely--they often stay pink or even a little brown--a condition known as Post-Inflammatory-Hyperpigmentation (or PIH for short). This cleanser uses Daisy Flower Acid and Kojic Acid which are very gentle natural skin brighteners. Also, this cleanser is the perfect texture---it lathers a little bit when combined with water, does a great job of removing surface oil and makeup, but doesn't leave my skin feeling dry or tight. Now that the discoloration is almost completely gone, I'll probably be switching to the Citrus Gel Cleanser very soon. I typically cleanse 2x a day (morning and night).

 Exfoliant Product Pick: Source Vital Citrus Peel

Why I like it: I prefer using a very gentle exfoliant that uses enzymes. This particular product is massaged onto the skin until it starts drying and forming particles (almost like when you were a kid and you'd rub Elmers glue off your hands...). After it feels like most of it has been massaged off, you can rinse it clean with cool water.  I typically do this 2-3x a week to help keep my skin smooth and clear. This part of my routine is critical to keeping my skin from breaking out.

Acne Treatment Product Pick: Rhonda Allison Blemish Complex

Why I like it: This product contains 5.25% Benzoyl Peroxide but also contains other ingredients that are soothing and hydrating to prevent the skin from becoming red, dry, and irritated. The medicine is powerful and works fast. I sometimes use about half a pump only on my forehead in the morning, and I almost always use a full pump (in a thin layer) on my entire face at night. 

Serum Product Picks:  

Rhonda Allison Therapy E Serum

Why I like it: My skin needs hydration---but not a ton. This works perfectly as a lightweight moisturizer at night. Vitamin E is an incredible antioxidant with proven skin benefits--it helps the skin to repair, soothes, and helps diminish the appearance of scars. It dries with a nice finish--never shiny or tacky. I always use 1 or 2 pumps of this on my face and neck mixed with about 1 pump of Super C Serum at night.

Rhonda Allison Super C Serum

Why I like it: Vitamin C is also a powerful antioxidant and is essential for use in producing collagen--I mix 1 pump of this with 1 or 2 pumps of the Therapy E Serum for a perfect light night time moisturizer. (If you have dry skin---this will NOT be enough for you. You could use this, but you'd probably want to layer another moisturizer over it)

Moisturizer Product Pick: Rhonda Allison Blushed Wine Gel

Why I like it: I use this light gel moisturizer in the morning. It provides the perfect amount of hydration for my combination skin--it dries with a cooling sensation that helps wake me up in the morning, and a dry finish. Tiny light reflective Mica particles refract light to make skin luminous. Resveratrol is one of the active ingredients in this product, and is touted with impressive anti-aging benefits. 

Lip Care Product Pick: Nivea Kiss of Moisture

Why I like it: This lip product doesn't feel thick and waxy--in fact, it hardly feels like anything at all--which is why my husband prefers I wear this to other lip products--it just feels as if I've just licked my lips and they're naturally moist. I use it at least morning and night.

 Makeup

Concealer Product Pick: MAKE UP FOR EVER Lift Concealer in Pink Beige 1

Why I like it: This concealer has the perfect amount of pink in it to cancel out under-eye darkness. It's texture is also perfect---it provides coverage without looking cakey or chalky--it doesn't end up creasing under my eyes after I've squinted or smiled, it's easy to blend, and even contains Vitamins A and E---fantastic on all fronts!

Foundation Product Pick: Clinique Almost Makeup SPF 15 in Fair

Why I like it: I advocate wearing the least amount of foundation coverage you can get away with. By using something a little bit sheer, makes my skin look more perfect, but still fresh and natural. Honestly, I don't use a foundation brush or makeup sponge--clean fingers work just as well for me. In fact, I feel they sometimes work a little better for foundation because the warmth of your hands helps the product really melt into your skin and look as natural as possible. Also, the SPF of 15 is always a plus in my book.

Powder Product Pick: Your Name Professional Brands Private Label Cosmetics Loose Translucent Powder in 01 Nude

Why I like it: Translucent Powder is the easiest way to set your foundation to keep it in place the entire day--it also gives you a nice matte finish to nix shine. Using loose powder with a big fluffy brush helps prevent makeup from looking to heavy or caked on.

Blush Product Picks:
NARS Cream Blush in Penny Lane

Why I like it: I love cream blushes because I feel they go on looking the most natural--they keep the skin looking flawless. This color is light and fresh and looks great on most skin tones. I use clean fingers to tap it just onto the apples of my cheeks and gently blend it in.

NARS Blush in Orgasm

Why I like it: The name of the shade is almost enough to make you blush on your own--but the color captures perfectly the healthy glow a woman has (or wishes she has) after...vigorous exercise. This peach is perfection for all skin colors---warm, cool, fair, AND ebony.

Highlighter Product Pick: Smashbox Artificial Light Luminizing Lotion in Diffuse

Why I like it: just a touch of this product along the top of the cheek bone (after you've put on your blush) gives skin a fresh, dewy appearance. Be careful not to over-use it, though--you certainly don't want to use it on the entire face because it could look tacky and artificial.

Eyeshadow Primer Product Pick: Your Name Professional Brands Private Label Cosmetics Shadow Magnet in 01 Light

Why I like it: Sometimes eyeshadows look different in the pan than they do on your skin--this product literally draws the shadow to your lid like a magnet--and keeps it in place. Because it is so light, it keeps the color true, so what you see in the pan is what you actually get. It can be tricky to learn to use at first---because of its thick texture, you MUST use only a little, and spread it in a VERY thin layer across the lid, or else your shadows will crease. Also, if you plan on using more than one color, you'll want to spread the lightest color, or even some of your loose powder over the entire lid, to make it easier to blend the colors together.

 Eyebrow Product Pick: Clinique Superfine Liner for Brows in Soft Blonde

Why I like it: This is a soft color that brings just enough definition to my brows. As a rule of thumb, you always want to choose a shade lighter than you think you'll need--use short dashes to fill in sparse areas and perfect the shape of your brows. I love the shape of my brows, but I like accentuating the top of the arch just a touch, and filling in the tails to really frame my eyes.

Eyeshadow Product Pick: Urban Decay Eye Shadow in Sin

Why I like it: Even without using a primer first, Urban Decay eyeshadows are usually very true to their color--they are high quality, easy to blend, and this particular color is incredibly flattering--it's a shimmery neutral that really brings out your eye's own sparkle. For subtle looks, I suggest wearing it on its own on your lower half of your lid only--but you can also blend other neutral colors for a bit more pop, or even blend more vibrant colors or even black for a more dramatic effect. When I'm not sure what I want to do with my eyes, this is the first product choose.

 Eyeliner Product Pick: Estee Lauder Stay in Place Eye Pencil in Graphite

Why I like it: My grandmother and her best friend loved their Estee Lauder. Ever since I was a little girl, my grandma would give me the free gift with purchase she got when she bought her own makeup and skin products--introducing me to the best eyeliner in the world. It goes on smooth, and stays in place, and the dark grey "graphite" shade makes eyes pop like black does, without seeming too severe.

Mascara Product Pick: Christian Dior DiorShow Waterproof Mascara in Black 90

Why I like it: First of all, this mascara withstood all the tears and sweat of my wedding in the Bahamas. It's easy to apply, rarely clumps, and really does seem to lengthen and volumize my lashes. One coat on curled lashes perfectly defines eyes without looking gunky. 

Lip Color Product Picks:

M.A.C. Tinted Lip Conditioner SPF 15 in Fuschia Fix and Peting Pink

Why I like it: Like the lip balm I recommended earlier, this product hydrates, smooths, and feels totally natural. Plus these particular colors are very flattering--The Peting Pink looks gorgeous and soft, especially when paired with NARS blush in "orgasm", and the Fuschia Fix, although still subtle, has a little more pop and looks great paried with NARS creme blush in "penny lane" or even something with a little more pink or a little bit more plum.

NARS Lip Lacquer in Babydoll

Why I like it: This color is incredibly flattering--it's the perfect shade of opalescent pink with the faintest hint of violet. The texture of the gloss is a little thick and sticky (my husband hates the way it feels and refuses to kiss me when I wear it). Because it is so thick, it's a little longer lasting than some others. I like applying it using a lip brush--and sometimes I will layer it over a lipstick.

Your Name Professional Brands Private Label Cosmetics Liquid Lustre in Tempest 

Why I like it: A beautiful peachy color that pairs very well with NARS blush in "orgasm" and pulls together a "peaches and cream" complexion. (these peachy colors work incredibly to bring out blue eyes!) The texture is smooth (thicker than the MAC Lip Conditioner, but not as sticky as the NARS Lip Lacquer) and it wears for a few hours.

keeping you beautiful (and sparkling) one post at a time!

Kate Block

Inside My Beauty Bag: My Beauty Picks, and Why I Actually Use Them.

I am a product junkie. Since beauty is what I've done for a living for years, you can imagine how I could become quite the product snob, though, too. I'll give you the inside scoop on the products I actually use on a daily basis.  Keep in mind, that everyone's skin and hair are different---products that I've come to rely on may not be capable of delivering the same results to you---For instance: I have wavy/curly, thick hair. Volume is NOT an issue with me. But that doesn't mean the brand I like doesn't have a solution for you!




Body Care

Deodorant Product Pick: Dove Clinical Protection "Cool Essentials". 

Why I like it: I don't consider myself to be an excessive sweater, but I like that I can rely on this. With Houston's somewhat unpredictable weather, it's nice to know you're covered. Since you put it on overnight, white gunky underarms are never an issue---and neither are deodorant stains on your dark clothes.  I started trying Secret's Clinical Protection. I didn't have a problem with it, but when Dove came out with theirs, I switched, because I find Dove tends to use gentler ingredients (although the active ingredient in both is the same).

Interesting tidbit: If you do really sweat excessively (the clinical term for the condition is hyperhydrosis), Botox injections in the underarms can help reduce sweat production; Researchers have recently developed a topical cream containing Botox-- it is undergoing clinical trials to determine whether or not it can be a successful treatment for the condition--depending on the results, Botox injections even for deep creases and wrinkles may quickly become a thing of the past as it makes way for a new generation of powerful topical products.

Body Wash Product Pick: Rhonda Allison Mintopia

Why I like it: Since I often take my showers in the morning, the mint scent is invigorating--but the main reason I like this product is because it gently exfoliates.  I also use it in place of shaving cream for my legs and underarms. Because it contains ingredients that gently exfoliate, it makes those areas less likely to become irritated after.  I do not recommend it for washing your nether-regions though---the menthol in the formula may leave you a little too tingly.

Body Wash Runner Up:  Burts Bees Extra Energizing Citrus & Ginger Root Body Wash

Why I like it: This body wash also has an invigorating scent. I tend to lean toward products that avoid artificial preservatives, fragrances, and colors---and Burts Bees, just like Rhonda Allison, fits that bill. Sometimes I'll use this in places I've avoided with the Mintopia, or I'll just use this instead, depending on the mood I'm in.  

Body Wash Ex-product pick: I used to be a huge fan of the body washes by Philosophy. I got my husband hooked of the wide variety of indulgent scents like Vanilla Birthday Cake, Cherry on Top, and Fudge Cake. They also usually come out with seasonal fragrances like The Gingerbread Man: unfortunately they smelled so good, it's my opinion he ended up using WAY MORE than he needed to, so we went through it pretty quickly. I still do like their shower gel (according to the label it can also be used as a shampoo, but I prefer to use something separate), but ultimately I decided to switch to something that was more natural (these contain artificial colors, fragrances, AND preservatives) and I was looking for a product that was multifunctional. The products I use now gently exfoliate, and I also use when I shave---Philosophy's body washes do not contain exfoliating ingredients, and didn't provide as comfortable a shave. Sorry Philosophy--it's not you, it's me.

After-shaving/waxing product pick: PFB Vanish

Why I like it: I've tried several products that promise to do what this product actually does for me. It contains mild amounts of salicylic, glycolic, and lactic acids that gently exfoliate to prevent ingrown hairs from becoming trapped under the skin. Salicylic acid is also anti-inflammatory so it helps reduce redness. It can sting just a little--there is a small amount of alcohol in the formula--but it doesn't contain nearly as much as competing products No Bump and TendSkin. Plus PFB comes in a convenient rollerball, making it easy to apply. I use it on my legs, underarms, and bikini every other day or so (if you shave EVERY day, you should probably use it every day).

Body Lotion Product Pick: Rhonda Allison Exotica Rhodiola Body Lotion

Why I like it: Unlike many other body products, Rhonda Allison uses some of the same high-quality performance ingredients that used to only be found in formulas designed for the face. The product feels good on the skin--it's not too heavy, it doesn't leave your skin tacky. It leaves a smooth, moisturized finish with a nice sheen. I truly noticed a difference in the hydration on my legs and arms.

Hand Cream Product Pick: Crabtree & Evelyn Summer Hill Hand Therapy Cream

Why I like it: A lot of hand creams feel too thick for me. I like this because of it's light scent (although it is artificial fragrance), and it's light texture---but the product actually delivers. I also love putting it on my feet at night just before putting on my aloe-infused socks.

Hair Care

Shampoo Product Pick: Abba Pure Color Protect Shampoo 

Why I like it: Sulfates are detergents often found in shampoo (a very common one is Sodium Laureth Sulfate) they are great at really getting the hair clean, and produce a great lather, but can be too harsh, especially for chemically treated hair. That's why I like looking for sulfate-free shampoos. Unfortunately, some of them leave hair feeling like there is a film coating it and it's not really clean. Also many sulfate-free shampoos don't give you a good lather, or can be very thin.  This product is sulfate free--but is a nice texture, produces a fantastic lather, and leaves my hair feeling soft and clean. I actually have used it without any conditioner, and still was happy with my hair---but I like using conditioner to detangle and moisturize my hair--it can tend to dry out without it. Although free of sulfates and artificial color, these products do sometimes use artificial preservatives and fragrance. They do use lots of natural ingredients, though like Aloe, Cucumber, Chamomile, and Fennel, and their label says the products are 100% vegan--suggesting that they do not test the products on animals, and do not use animal by-products in their formulas.

Runner-Up Shampoo Product Pick: TIGI S-Factor Color Savvy Sulfate-Free Shampoo

This line smells DELICIOUS. (one night when my husband hugged me he told me I smelled like berries and angels...) It also leaves my hair feeling clean (but not dry) and provides a great lather. I made the switch from this to Abba (with several duds in-between) when I decided to try something with more natural ingredients.

One of the "duds" was Aquage SeaExtend Strengthening Shampoo--it was thin, so product constantly slipped through my fingers and down the shower drain before ever making it to my hair---plus if I shampooed and rinsed only once, it wouldn't lather much, and my hair hardly felt any cleaner when I was through. I finally discovered that I had to use substantially more product, and that I had to shampoo, rinse, repeat 2 or 3 times before I could get a good lather, and my hair actually was left feeling clean. I was also disappointed with similar results when using CHI Infra Moisture Therapy Shampoo.

Conditioner Product Pick: Abba Pure Color Protect Conditioner 

Why I like it: I generally like using shampoos with their accompanying conditioner. Often they are designed to work well together. It is a good texture---not as heavy as some conditioners that can tend to weigh the hair down. It does a good job of detangling, and like it's partnered shampoo it contains many wonderful natural ingredients like Coconut, Rosemary, and Wild Cherry.

Conditioner Product Pick Runner-Up: Alterna Luxury White Truffle Conditioner

Why I like it: It feels rich, but not too heavy--it does a nice job of detangling, and it leaves my hair feeling healthy and looking shiny. It uses luxurious ingredients like truffle oil, champagne grape seed oil, and caviar extract. I also really like the smell. It can run a bit pricy, though, and it does contain artificial color and fragrance.

Leave-in Conditioner product Pick: Redken Instant Polishing Prep Leave-in Cutting and Detangling Lotion

Why I like it: It actually feels like it does something! It makes your hair feel softer. I don't use something like this very often though--I feel that if I'm using a great shampoo and conditioner, I don't really need it so much. I feel like it leaves my hair a little more moisturized and shiny too.

 Hair spray product Pick: White Sands Infinity Hair Spray

Why I like it: It's very versatile! It can be used for incredible volume, very controlled, firm, shape--or very soft looks. Hair still feels like hair after it's applied---not like a sticky lacquered surface. Heat protectant, and humidity resistant.  It can be used to create very abstract over the top hairstyles or your every day look. Use a blow dryer set to high heat and low speed-of-air-flow to really lock-in your style.

Shine Spray product Pick: TIGI S-factor Flat Iron Shine Spray Heat Defender

Why I like it: Just one or two sprays (sprayed from a bit of a distance so it's dispersed evenly) gives you plenty of shine, and like it's brothers and sisters in the line--it smells phenomenal. It's also UV and heat protectant.

Curl Product Picks: Abba Pure Curl Prep and Abba Pure Curl Finish Spray

Why I like them: Once again, Abba uses a lot of natural ingredients, but it delivers real results too. The products provide the best results when used together, and when the hair is blow-dried with a diffuser, but can be used separately and/or the hair can be left to air dry. Curls are shinier and less frizzy, but aren't crunchy either.

Styling Product Pick: Alterna Hemp with Organics Styling Mud

Why I like it: This gives flexible hold with a lot of shine. Lends great texture to the hair. I like to rub just a touch of this between my palms and smooth it over the surface of my hair near the scalp to nix any flyaways--sometimes I'll brush through afterward with a boar bristle brush. This is also great for smoothing over pulled-back hair styles, for adding shine to curls after having used a curling iron, or for distributing through hair before braiding to keep shorter hairs from sticking out of the braid, but still keeping the hair soft.

Volumizing Product Pick: Alterna Hemp with Organics Thickening Compound

Why I like it: I don't shampoo my hair every day; If I've straightened my hair the day before and want to re-wear the style but it seems a little flat, this product saves it. I'll distribute about a nickel-sized amount near the roots of my hair and blow-dry it---either upside down or while lifting with a vented brush to create a little more body in the top. This product is indispensable.

Strengthening Product Pick: CHI Silk Infusion

Why I like it:  I love putting this product in while my hair is still damp. I gently towel-dry my hair, and then work in about a dime-sized amount of product focusing on my ends, and then distributing the rest as evenly as possible in the rest of my hair. I really do notice an improvement in the strength and shininess of my hair.

Like I said, I'm a product junkie! I use a lot of products. I don't use all of them every day--some are only used every once in awhile, but these are the actual products I currently have and prefer to use. This is not to say there aren't plenty of other fantastic products out there that deliver similar results. I may have my reasons for not using them--or I just simply may not have discovered them yet!  Keep your eyes peeled for Part II! In my next "Inside My Beauty Bag" entry I'll reveal my favorite skincare and makeup products!

Keeping you beautiful (and pulled-together!) one post at a time.

Kate Block

Just let go, jump in,.. 'cause there's beauty in the breakdown...

As many of us are so painfully aware, the economy has made it difficult for everyone the last couple of years. Businesses, including those in the beauty industry, have taken a big hit--sales have dropped. Many people are finding ways to cut corners and skincare treatments are often regarded as frivolous and extravagant. I understand the mentality--it's why I promote retail products so much---so you can take care of your skin at home--it's much more affordable than the treatments themselves.  

Unfortunately, these difficult times have gotten the best of me too, greeting me with a lack of a job upon return from my beautiful vacation. Nonetheless, I am confident I will be able to find a suitable fit at another salon or spa in Houston in the very near future. I hope to find a position at a company carrying Rhonda Allison's product line.  I do also intend to continue updating my blog weekly, and I will be sure to keep everyone in the loop about where I end up next!

keeping you beautiful (and confident!) one post at a time,

Kate Block

The Basics of Product Formulations and Ingredients

As I've mentioned in my post about taking care of your skin at home, I know how intimidating it can be when looking for the right products. To take some of the scariness out of it, I'm going to educate you on the different kinds of products, their importance, and what to look for in them.


I want to begin by explaining my love of Rhonda Allison products. I have worked with various different product lines, (G.M. Collin, Source Vital, PCA...) and I think they all have strengths and weaknesses. All of them have products and ingredients I find to be outstanding. Rhonda Allison is the only brand I've used where I can't find the weakness.   

Oh, Rhonda Allison, how do I love thee? Let me count the ways...

• I love thy innovative packaging. Packaging is usually just fluff--an extension of a products' marketing campaign to help it look pretty. Not only does Rhonda Allison's packaging look great, it also serves a purpose. All of her serums and moisturizers have a unique twist-up pump that locks into place. I don't like jars because it's easy to contaminate the product, and the ingredients are constantly being exposed to air (you know who you are, PCA...). Pumps solve the contamination issue, but the pump allows the product to constantly be in contact with the air--and as product is removed from the bottle, the empty space is filled with more air. This packaging resolves both issues--twist the pump up, and it locks into place. Pump as much product as you need, and then twist and lock the pump back into place. The double-wall of the bottle helps keep the product temperature-controlled, and the inside chamber presses up as you use product, keeping only product inside---no air--this keeps the ingredients fresher longer by preventing them from oxidizing or drying out.  As a bonus, you can travel without fear of wasting your products, and ruining your favorite clothes!
  
• I love thy motto "naturally scientific". Rhonda Allison uses loads of natural ingredients that are great for the skin like pumpkin, pineapple, cherries, pomegranates, blueberries, and grapes; but isn't afraid of using scientific research to their advantage by using ingredients like polypeptides and epidermal growth factor. It says right on the "about us" section of her website: "Always looking to nature for inspiration, Rhonda blends the best of active natural ingredients with highly beneficial, scientifically developed compounds to create a synergy of superior professional treatments and customized home care products that will transform the condition of your skin." I really believe they do a great job of marrying the two. Source Vital was an all-natural line, that mainly focused on using algae, seaweed, and essential oils. The products stayed the same over the years, despite new technological advances. Rhonda Allison is constantly re-formulating their products to make them better, and is always working on developing new ones.
  
• I love that thou stays artificial preservative, color, and fragrance free. It's nice to know that when a product is orange and smells like pumpkin---it's because there is pumpkin REALLY in it. Not because of added dye and scent. Artificial preservatives (parabens are an example of this), colors, and fragrances are all common irritants, making this line great for people with high sensitivities.
  
• I love that thou doth not test on animals. Always tested by human volunteers, not by unsuspecting bunnies.
  
• I love thy zest for knowledge. Rhonda Allison's team stays abreast of scientific research, and insists on offering affordable continuing education classes for estheticians and esthetics students. She posts free webinars on her website constantly, and sends e-mail notifications about the latest developments in the line. I just recently attended this hands-on class in Dallas, TX.
  
• I love thy integrity. I can rest assured that these products will deliver results and do what they say they are going to do, when used consistently, and according to directions.
• I love thy plentiful offerings. It can be intimidating to some having so many things to choose from. But some ingredients and formulas work well for some, and not as well for others. I like that they utilize FDA recognized ingredients like Benzoyl Peroxide, Salicylic Acid, and Hydroquinone (ingredients some companies are too scared to use). Since skin is not one-size-fits all, it's nice to be able to pick and choose among products to come up with the perfect fit.

That said, you will be able to navigate any skin care line to find products that use worthwhile ingredients if you take the time to know some of the ones that are most commonly used.

Performance Ingredients and Functional Ingredients

All products have performance ingredients and functional ingredients.  The Performance ingredients are the performers in the play---the ones that really wow you--they have a direct affect on the skin. The functional ingredients are the stage hands, the lighting crew, the sound effects guy--they are essential to the impact of the entire play, but aren't usually given as much credit (although it's very deserved). Functional ingredients help the product to spread, give the product viscosity (thickness) or any other texture, give it scent, or even color.

In a product, a specific example of a performance ingredient might be something like Lavender-- it's antibacterial, soothing, healing, and stimulating. An example of a functional ingredient is Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, which is a natural emulsifier. (it enables oil-soluble and water-soluble ingredients to be blended together without separating). It also helps products like cleansers to foam.

Some ingredients can serve both as a performance and functional ingredient, like Aloe, which is healing and moisturizing, but can also be a great gel base to carry other performance ingredients.

In products that are considered drugs by the FDA, performance ingredients are referred to on the label as "active ingredients", and functional ingredients are referred to on the label as "inactive ingredients". These terms are often used interchangeably.

This post will be focusing primarily on performance or active ingredients.

Product Classifications

To better understand products, you must first know the basic product classifications: Cleansers, toners, moisturizers, serums, exfoliants, and masks. Most people regularly use a cleanser and a moisturizer.

Cleansers

Cleansers can come in many varieties---typically those that are gel-based are good at removing excess oil from the skin, those that are more of a milky-type consistency are good for sensitive skin or skin that already has a good oil/water balance, and thick creams like cold creams are targeted for particularly dry skin. Cleansers are the backbone of any home-care routine. Clean skin absorbs products much more effectively. I recommend most people cleanse two times a day. Many cleansers can work double-duty as an exfoliant, depending on the ingredients. Examples are Rhonda Allison's Beta Green Tea Cleanser with Salicylic Acid (I've spoken more about SA here), Glycolic Herbal Wash with Glycolic Acid, an acid derived from sugar cane that moisturizes while exfoliating, and her Pumpkin Cleanser with Lactic Acid (an acid derived from milk, that is known for lightening benefits).Other common ingredients in cleansers are also found in the other types of products I will mention below.

Toners

Toners can be very beneficial, but not necessarily in the classic sense. Many people would use them as an astringent to mop up excess oil and dry out the skin. I don't like when toners have too much alcohol---although it can be antibacterial, it is often too drying---leaving the skin red, irritated, and often even strips both the oil and water from the skin. Toners were also touted to "restore the skin's pH balance". Most cleansers are formulated at a pH higher than the skin's so the pores are opened, allowing them to be cleaned more easily---toners are often formulated at a pH that is lower than the skin--constricting the pores. This does make them appear smaller--but the effects are only temporary--because the skin regulates its own pH, and eventually will return to its normal pH one way or the other. These days, toners are more an extension of the cleansing process--a way to make sure that the skin is really clean by removing any traces of leftover cleanser, and potentially exfoliating too.  Not only that, but since toners are left on the skin, they are also part of the treatment process--it's the first part of layering ingredients targeted specifically to improve the skin. Rhonda Allison's Raspberry Lotion has ingredients like Resveratrol, which has high antioxidant power (more than vitamins C and E combined) and is derived from grapes used to make red wine. It has gained a lot of popularity after being talked about by Dr. Oz and Oprah, and also covered in 60 minutes. Studies suggest that when taken as an oral supplement, it can significantly slow the aging process, and can potentially reduce risk for cardiovascular disease.

Moisturizers

There are tons of moisturizers out there. Some are marketed as "day creams" others as "night creams". Day creams are sometimes lighter in texture, to make applying makeup over them easy. Many also contain sun protection built right in. Night creams are typically a little heavier. Some may contain ingredients that should not be exposed to the sun (the sun can break down certain ingredients, making them less effective, and some ingredients can make your more susceptible to burn- like Retinol). If you have an effective moisturizer you like to use---you don't have to have something you use only at night or only during the day. You can simply wear it during the day and layer a sunscreen over it, and use it without the SPF at night.  

Glycerine is a very common hydrating ingredient that binds water to the skin, as is Squalane, which is a lubricant that is extracted from olives and is a main component of the oil human skin naturally produces. Sorbitol is a unique hydrating ingredient, because it draws moisture from the air--making it ideal for summers in humid Houston, TX (in more arid climates or dryer seasons, sorbitol can actually do the reverse and take water from your skin and put it in the air, so I'd recommend using a different product, or using a home humidifier to keep the air moist). Allantoin, like Aloe, is healing and draws water to the skin. Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (Green Tea) is another common ingredient because it's full of antioxidants, which help keep skin cells healthy. 

Not all moisturizers have to be creams--some are light-weight gels. I love recommending gels for use in the morning under makeup, or for people with oily or acne-prone skin. The skin is still hydrated, but doesn't feel tacky or greasy. I specifically like Growth Factor Gel and Blushed Wine Gel, both of which are from Rhonda Allison. Found in the Growth Factor Gel, Epidermal Growth Factor (it's scientific name is rh-Oligopeptide-1 and it is sometimes referred to as EGF for short) is a type of peptide, and a vital protein that is found naturally in human fibroblasts (the cells responsible for making collagen). They increase cell renewal and assist in wound-healing. Moisturizers are typically very rich in performance ingredients that target anti-aging. Many brands have a one-size-fits-all sentiment for anti-aging moisturizers, though, which can cause problems for oilier skins, since many are targeted for individuals looking to reverse the signs of aging rather than prevent them. Since oil production tapers off as we age, these creams are rich in ingredients like Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), and Mineral Oil, which sit on top of the skin, keeping water trapped underneath. They are good in small quantities, but too much can either cause the skin to rely on it for moisture, and stop producing oil on its own, or can make the skin become clogged because it is too heavy.

Serums

Serums are products with high concentrations of performance ingredients. They are sometimes formulated with smaller molecules so the ingredients are better absorbed deep in the skin, where they can do the most good. Serums are often layered under moisturizers or used in place of moisturizers. I love recommending clients add a serum under their moisturizer for additional hydration in harsh winter weather--when the weather becomes more appealing, they don't have to switch moisturizers, they can just discontinue use of the serum. 

Serums often have antioxidants like L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C)--an antioxidant that is essential to collagen production, Retinol (Vitamin A)--which helps normalize a cell's DNA to assist in repair, and D-Alpha Tocopherol (Vitamin E)--a natural moisturizer that aids in repairing the skin with natural preservative properties. Product examples include Rhonda Allison's Super C Serum, Therapy A Serum, Therapy E Serum, and Antioxidant Complex Serum as well as PCA's A&C Synergy Serum.

Another type of ingredient commonly found is peptides. They are amino acids that are linked together to from a specific grouping, they stimulate fibroblasts and signal the skin to produce more protein, increasing the skins' firmness, tone, and diminish fine lines. Examples of peptides are Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Caprooyl Tetrapeptide-3, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide (also seen on labels as Matrixyl or Matrixyl 3000), Marine Oligopeptide,and L-Carnosine. These can be found in Satin Peptide, Amino Peptide Serum, Youth Essence Peptide Serum, MVC Serum, and many other Rhonda Allison products. They can also be found in PCA's ExLinea Peptide Smoothing Serum and G.M. Collin's Bota-peptide 5 Complex. As mentioned above, Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF) is another kind of peptide, and can be found in PCA's Rejuvenating Serum.


L-Sodium Hyaluronate (Hyaluronic acid) is also found in many serums (and moisturizers for that matter). It naturally occurs in the body and draws water to the skin. It's found in Rhonda Allison's appropriately named Hyaluronic Serum, as well as many other of her serums and moisturizers. Hylauronic Acid is also the main ingredient used in the injectable fillers Restylane, Perlane, Hylaform and Juvederm.


Other serums are targeted at correcting problems other than lack of moisture or wrinkled skin, like Rosacea, Acne, or discoloration. Common in rosacea products, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Diprpoylene Glycol, Betula Alba Bark Extract, and Scrophularia Nodosa Extract all improve the skins barrier function to decrease skin's vulnerability and reaction to inflammation. They also help reduce extreme swelling and heat associated with this inflammatory condition, and protects from UV exposure. Salix Alba Bark Extract (White Willow) contains glycoside salicin which acts as an analgesic (topical numbing solution) the skin to be less affected by extreme hot or cold temperatures. Salicylic Acid is common in products targeting acne (Rhonda Allison's Blemish Serum, PCA's Acne Gel, G.M. Collin Derm Renewal Gel), as is Sulfur, Resorcinol, and Benzoyl Peroxide (All of these are discussed more in my post about Acne). Great product picks with BPO include Rhonda Allison's Blemish Complex, and PCA's BPO Cleanser and Acne Cream. Other great ingredients for treating acne are Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil (Tea Tree) which is known for healing, antiseptic qualities, and Fomes Officinallis (Mushroom extract), which inhibitis tyrosinase (the enzyme that produces melanin--the pigment of the skin) and is also antibacterial. This can prevent the little dark reminders of past acne from sticking around. As far as lightening products go, Hydroquinone is a chemical that is another tyrosinase inhibitor (like the mushroom extract). It is the only lightening ingredient recognized by the FDA and is available in a concentration of 2% in Rhonda Allison's Skin Brightening Gel or PCA's Pigment Gel. Other ingredients that help lighten excess pigmentation include Kojic Acid, and Azelaic Acid--which are somewhat more gentle tyrosinase inhibitors and lightening agents. L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) is also said to help reduce excess pigmentation. These and other ingredients are found in Rhonda Allison's Naturale Mega Brightening Serum, Skin Brightening Cleanser, Skin Brightening Scrub, and Brightening Cream Enhancer and PCA's hydroquinone-free version of Pigment Gel.

Exfoliants

Exfoliation, in my opinion, is one of the best possible tools you can use to improve the skin--almost every skin condition is bettered by introducing exfoliation. Different types can achieve somewhat different results, but it is generally accepted that exfoliating the skin helps generate new skin cells (since the old cells must be replaced), helping to keep the skin rejuvenated and young. It obviously helps the texture of the skin to become softer and smoother (just as sandpaper helps a piece of a wood become smooth), it increases the skin's circulation, keeps the pores clear to prevent acne from forming, reduces pigmentation problems, and helps products that you use to penetrate more easily--allowing them to be more effective.

There are a few different kinds of exfoliants:

Mechanical exfoliation are ways of physically sloughing off the skin cells--like using a clarisonic brush when you cleanse, using a scrub that has beads or crystals in it (like jojoba beads, or corundum crystals), or even microdermabrasion (which sprays corundum crystals across the skin--kind of like sandblasting). I do not like exfoliants that use pieces of fruit pits, like St. Ive's Apricot Scrub, because the particles are jagged and can cause microscopic tears in the skin--aggravating it more than necessary. A good scrub should have tiny round spheres. Sugar and salt scrubs can be good for the body, but something designed for the face should be smaller to get the best results--also if you choose a salt scrub for the body, keep in mind it could sting if you have any knicks from shaving, or razor burn. Rhonda Allison's Clarifying Beads provide a very gentle exfoliation using jojoba beads.


Chemical exfoliation reaches further, by using acids that can be absorbed into the skin, actually exfoliating inside the follicle. Look for ingredients like Lactic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Glycolic Acid, and Mandelic Acid (derived from Almonds).

Enzyme exfoliation delivers results similar to chemical exfoliation. It too is absorbed into the skin, exfoliating inside the follicle. These enzymes--like the digestive enzymes found in human saliva and the human pancreas that help break down food--work similarly on the skin to literally digest the skin cells it comes in contact with. Enzymes are generally m ore gentle than most acids. Commonly used enzymes include Papain (papaya), Bromelain (pineapple), Pepsin (found in various plants) Cucurbita Pepo (pumpkin) and even Pancreatin (taken from cows). I personally don't like using Pancreatin, since there are so many other more appealing enzyme options. Rhonda Allison's Pumpkin Parfait Enzyme is a perfect example. (none of Rhonda Allison's products contain Pancreatin to my knowledge)

Combinations of Mechanical, Chemical, and Enzyme Exfoliation are also common. Rhonda Allison's Beta Action Scrub combines jojoba beads with Salicylic Acid. Pumice Wash combines jojoba beads with pumice grains (ground up pumice stone), Lactic Acid, and Salicylic Acid. When I recommend clients use these at home, I often suggest they leave them in the shower--they can massage it in like any other scrub, and leave it on for 3-5 minutes like a mask--so the acids have a chance to work. While it sits, they can go about shaving and/or and washing their hair---rinsing it off when they're done. A Gommage is the term used for a product that uses both enzyme and mechanical exfoliation. Rhonda Allison's Derma Peel does exactly that. It's one of my favorite products, not only because it delivers great results--but it's also pretty fun to use! Gommages typically have an enzyme that works while the product is left to dry on the skin--once it is dry, it is rolled off the skin---the friction caused by rolling it off mechanically exfoliates. This particular one works slightly differently: It starts off feeling like a thick gel, as you massage it onto the skin it becomes more of a thin liquid consistency, as you massage it further, you will start noticing little pieces starting to form as it becomes almost like a scrub---the pieces that form are actually the ingredients sticking together with your dead skin cells to exfoliate even further. It's very gentle, but super effective.  One product I like that is a traditional gommage is Source Vital's Citrus Peel. I personally still use this product, although I no longer work for a company that retails it. Source Vital is manufactured in Houston, so it should be pretty easy to get your hands on. The company was founded by one of my former Employers, Brea Pope Gratia, owner of Sanctuary Spa D'Sante. Yet another possibility is combining enzymes with acids. Rhonda Allison's Skin Brightening Enzyme uses Papain along with Salicylic Acid and Kojic Acid. The Cherry Jubilee Enzyme uses Bromelain along with Lactic Acid and Salicylic Acid [it has cherry in the name because it also uses Prunus Speciosa (Cherry)--known for their soothing and anti-inflammatory properties]. 

Masks

Masks are honestly one of the very last things I recommend for use at home. I think they can certainly be beneficial to the skin, but I think exfoliants (and all the other products) are far more important--it's with exfoliants that you see the most dramatic results and improvement. I do like using masks during facials--I recommend keeping them refrigerated (especially if they contain fruit-based ingredients) to not only preserve them longer, but also to use the coolness of the mask to help soothe and refresh your skin. I find this technique (refrigeration) especially beneficial to calm the skin and help take the redness out of skin that has been vigorously exfoliated and stimulated with steam and extractions.

There are many different kinds of masks. Gel and cream-based masks are often soothing and hydrating--they don't harden, which makes for easier removal--something people with sensitive or rosacea skin can appreciate.  Clay masks usually are stimulating, firming, and absorb oil. They dry or harden when left on and can sometimes be difficult to remove. Kaolin and Bentonite are some of the most commonly used clays. If you have ever worked with ceramics, or grew up in Virginia playing in Virginia red clay like I did, you know firsthand how quickly clay absorbs moisture. Because these have great firming effects, some formulas will have Glycerine, Shea Butter,Vitus Vinifera Seed Extract (Grape-lubricant), Squalane, and other ingredients to prevent it from being too drying. This makes them appropriate even for drier skin types. Rhonda Allison's Grape Seed Parfait Mask, Impure Skin Mask, and Beta Refine Mask all use both Kaolin and Bentonite. 

L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) is common in masks, as is D-Alpha Tocopherol (Vitamin E) and even Resveratrol is popping up in many masks (like the Grape Seed Parfait). Some masks may contain ingredients like Menthol (derived from peppermint) for it's antibacterial, cooling, and stimulating effects. Lycopene (an antioxidant plentiful in tomatoes) is becoming more common in masks. One I've used and liked before with lycopene is Eminence Organic's Tomato Lycopene Masque. Antioxidants like Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (Green Tea) or more specifically Epigallocatechin Gallate (EGCG--the main polyphenol, a type antioxidant, derived from green tea) are common in masks as well. Calendula Officinalis (Marigold) and Azulene (derived from German Chamomile) are also very popular in soothing masks because they have healing, anti-inflammatory, and anti-itching properties. Algae and Seaweed common, particularly in body masks and wraps for it's antioxidant, firming, and detoxifying properties. Sulfur is also pretty common in masks because it is beneficial for oily or acne-prone skin.

Eye and Lip Products

Many eye products contain similar ingredients that facial moisturizers do. Many are somewhat lighter, or contain lower concentrations of powerful ingredients used on the face because the skin in this area is so delicate. Common ingredients are L-Sodium Hylarunate (hyaluronic acid---for moisture), Retinol (Vitamin A--for anti-aging benefits), several different peptides, Lactic Acid, and L-Ascorbic Acid (vitamin C). Some product picks are the Rhonda Allison's Moisture Eye Treatment, and Peptide 3-in-1 Eye Cream and PCA's EyeXcellence, and G.M. Collin's Bota-Peptide Eye Contour Cream. L-Arbutin is a gentle lightening ingredient, and Mica is a mineral that reflects light is sometimes used in certain products targeted toward reducing undereye darkness, but obviously results are temporary. Examples of products containing L-Arbutin and Mica are Rhonda Allison's Eye Revitalizer and Daylight Eye Parfait.  

Rhonda Allison's Eye & Lip Repair Serum has both the Vitamin C and Retinol. I personally love it for the lips as an overnight lip moisturizer, but hate the thick texture around my eyes. PCA's Peptide Lip Therapy has a similar consistency, and also works nicely on my lips over night (either could also be used in lieu of a clear gloss during the day) but they are too thick for layering anything over. G.M. Collin's Lip "Plumping" Complex contains collagen and hyaluronic acid. I think the texture is nice, and it helps the condition of the skin on my lips--but I didn't notice additional fullness. It tingles a lot like other plumping products including Lip Venom; I think they probably can increase the fullness of the lip--but only because they irritate the lips to the point of edema (swelling). On my lips during the day, nothing beats the feel of Nivea's Kiss of Moisture. It feels extremely light on the skin (surprising since it has microcrystalline wax, castor oil, carnauba wax, and shea butter--all somewhat heavier ingredients that help trap moisture in the skin) but it also has ingredients like jojoba seed oil and grape seed oil. It doesn't affect any other lip products I wear over it (lipstick or gloss) and it's the one of two lip products my husband will still kiss me when I'm wearing (he says other things feel too sticky, this he doesn't even notice is on...).  The other product I really like for lips is M.A.C.'s Lip Conditioner SPF 15 and Tinted Lip Conditioner SPF 15. It feels really smooth and light going on. It contains some of the same ingredients the Nivea product does, plus vitamins A and E, almond oil, and avocado oil (both excellent moisturizers).

The higher on the list it is, the higher the concentration it is

Ingredients are listed in order from those used in the highest percentage to those in the lowest percentage. Once it gets to ingredients used in concentrations of 1% or lower, they do not have to be listed in any particular order (although as a group they all must appear lowest in the list). The most common cosmetic ingredient is Aqua (water) followed very closely by the most common botanical ingredient, Aloe. Many performance ingredients are in the middle or bottom of the ingredients list, because they use smaller quantities. If you want something truly powerful to fight wrinkles, for example, you may compare two ingredients lists side-by-side. If Retinol is the fifth ingredient listed on one, and the tenth ingredient on the other---your best bet is the one listing Retinol as the fifth ingredient, because it likely contains a higher percentage of it.

This is just the tip of the iceberg.   

There are hundreds of thousands of effective (and not-so-effective) cosmetic ingredients out there. These are some you can look for that have proven to me (and many researchers) that they can provide the results they promise. Good luck!

Keeping you beautiful (and informed) one post at a time,

Kate Block