The Basics of Product Formulations and Ingredients

As I've mentioned in my post about taking care of your skin at home, I know how intimidating it can be when looking for the right products. To take some of the scariness out of it, I'm going to educate you on the different kinds of products, their importance, and what to look for in them.


I want to begin by explaining my love of Rhonda Allison products. I have worked with various different product lines, (G.M. Collin, Source Vital, PCA...) and I think they all have strengths and weaknesses. All of them have products and ingredients I find to be outstanding. Rhonda Allison is the only brand I've used where I can't find the weakness.   

Oh, Rhonda Allison, how do I love thee? Let me count the ways...

• I love thy innovative packaging. Packaging is usually just fluff--an extension of a products' marketing campaign to help it look pretty. Not only does Rhonda Allison's packaging look great, it also serves a purpose. All of her serums and moisturizers have a unique twist-up pump that locks into place. I don't like jars because it's easy to contaminate the product, and the ingredients are constantly being exposed to air (you know who you are, PCA...). Pumps solve the contamination issue, but the pump allows the product to constantly be in contact with the air--and as product is removed from the bottle, the empty space is filled with more air. This packaging resolves both issues--twist the pump up, and it locks into place. Pump as much product as you need, and then twist and lock the pump back into place. The double-wall of the bottle helps keep the product temperature-controlled, and the inside chamber presses up as you use product, keeping only product inside---no air--this keeps the ingredients fresher longer by preventing them from oxidizing or drying out.  As a bonus, you can travel without fear of wasting your products, and ruining your favorite clothes!
  
• I love thy motto "naturally scientific". Rhonda Allison uses loads of natural ingredients that are great for the skin like pumpkin, pineapple, cherries, pomegranates, blueberries, and grapes; but isn't afraid of using scientific research to their advantage by using ingredients like polypeptides and epidermal growth factor. It says right on the "about us" section of her website: "Always looking to nature for inspiration, Rhonda blends the best of active natural ingredients with highly beneficial, scientifically developed compounds to create a synergy of superior professional treatments and customized home care products that will transform the condition of your skin." I really believe they do a great job of marrying the two. Source Vital was an all-natural line, that mainly focused on using algae, seaweed, and essential oils. The products stayed the same over the years, despite new technological advances. Rhonda Allison is constantly re-formulating their products to make them better, and is always working on developing new ones.
  
• I love that thou stays artificial preservative, color, and fragrance free. It's nice to know that when a product is orange and smells like pumpkin---it's because there is pumpkin REALLY in it. Not because of added dye and scent. Artificial preservatives (parabens are an example of this), colors, and fragrances are all common irritants, making this line great for people with high sensitivities.
  
• I love that thou doth not test on animals. Always tested by human volunteers, not by unsuspecting bunnies.
  
• I love thy zest for knowledge. Rhonda Allison's team stays abreast of scientific research, and insists on offering affordable continuing education classes for estheticians and esthetics students. She posts free webinars on her website constantly, and sends e-mail notifications about the latest developments in the line. I just recently attended this hands-on class in Dallas, TX.
  
• I love thy integrity. I can rest assured that these products will deliver results and do what they say they are going to do, when used consistently, and according to directions.
• I love thy plentiful offerings. It can be intimidating to some having so many things to choose from. But some ingredients and formulas work well for some, and not as well for others. I like that they utilize FDA recognized ingredients like Benzoyl Peroxide, Salicylic Acid, and Hydroquinone (ingredients some companies are too scared to use). Since skin is not one-size-fits all, it's nice to be able to pick and choose among products to come up with the perfect fit.

That said, you will be able to navigate any skin care line to find products that use worthwhile ingredients if you take the time to know some of the ones that are most commonly used.

Performance Ingredients and Functional Ingredients

All products have performance ingredients and functional ingredients.  The Performance ingredients are the performers in the play---the ones that really wow you--they have a direct affect on the skin. The functional ingredients are the stage hands, the lighting crew, the sound effects guy--they are essential to the impact of the entire play, but aren't usually given as much credit (although it's very deserved). Functional ingredients help the product to spread, give the product viscosity (thickness) or any other texture, give it scent, or even color.

In a product, a specific example of a performance ingredient might be something like Lavender-- it's antibacterial, soothing, healing, and stimulating. An example of a functional ingredient is Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, which is a natural emulsifier. (it enables oil-soluble and water-soluble ingredients to be blended together without separating). It also helps products like cleansers to foam.

Some ingredients can serve both as a performance and functional ingredient, like Aloe, which is healing and moisturizing, but can also be a great gel base to carry other performance ingredients.

In products that are considered drugs by the FDA, performance ingredients are referred to on the label as "active ingredients", and functional ingredients are referred to on the label as "inactive ingredients". These terms are often used interchangeably.

This post will be focusing primarily on performance or active ingredients.

Product Classifications

To better understand products, you must first know the basic product classifications: Cleansers, toners, moisturizers, serums, exfoliants, and masks. Most people regularly use a cleanser and a moisturizer.

Cleansers

Cleansers can come in many varieties---typically those that are gel-based are good at removing excess oil from the skin, those that are more of a milky-type consistency are good for sensitive skin or skin that already has a good oil/water balance, and thick creams like cold creams are targeted for particularly dry skin. Cleansers are the backbone of any home-care routine. Clean skin absorbs products much more effectively. I recommend most people cleanse two times a day. Many cleansers can work double-duty as an exfoliant, depending on the ingredients. Examples are Rhonda Allison's Beta Green Tea Cleanser with Salicylic Acid (I've spoken more about SA here), Glycolic Herbal Wash with Glycolic Acid, an acid derived from sugar cane that moisturizes while exfoliating, and her Pumpkin Cleanser with Lactic Acid (an acid derived from milk, that is known for lightening benefits).Other common ingredients in cleansers are also found in the other types of products I will mention below.

Toners

Toners can be very beneficial, but not necessarily in the classic sense. Many people would use them as an astringent to mop up excess oil and dry out the skin. I don't like when toners have too much alcohol---although it can be antibacterial, it is often too drying---leaving the skin red, irritated, and often even strips both the oil and water from the skin. Toners were also touted to "restore the skin's pH balance". Most cleansers are formulated at a pH higher than the skin's so the pores are opened, allowing them to be cleaned more easily---toners are often formulated at a pH that is lower than the skin--constricting the pores. This does make them appear smaller--but the effects are only temporary--because the skin regulates its own pH, and eventually will return to its normal pH one way or the other. These days, toners are more an extension of the cleansing process--a way to make sure that the skin is really clean by removing any traces of leftover cleanser, and potentially exfoliating too.  Not only that, but since toners are left on the skin, they are also part of the treatment process--it's the first part of layering ingredients targeted specifically to improve the skin. Rhonda Allison's Raspberry Lotion has ingredients like Resveratrol, which has high antioxidant power (more than vitamins C and E combined) and is derived from grapes used to make red wine. It has gained a lot of popularity after being talked about by Dr. Oz and Oprah, and also covered in 60 minutes. Studies suggest that when taken as an oral supplement, it can significantly slow the aging process, and can potentially reduce risk for cardiovascular disease.

Moisturizers

There are tons of moisturizers out there. Some are marketed as "day creams" others as "night creams". Day creams are sometimes lighter in texture, to make applying makeup over them easy. Many also contain sun protection built right in. Night creams are typically a little heavier. Some may contain ingredients that should not be exposed to the sun (the sun can break down certain ingredients, making them less effective, and some ingredients can make your more susceptible to burn- like Retinol). If you have an effective moisturizer you like to use---you don't have to have something you use only at night or only during the day. You can simply wear it during the day and layer a sunscreen over it, and use it without the SPF at night.  

Glycerine is a very common hydrating ingredient that binds water to the skin, as is Squalane, which is a lubricant that is extracted from olives and is a main component of the oil human skin naturally produces. Sorbitol is a unique hydrating ingredient, because it draws moisture from the air--making it ideal for summers in humid Houston, TX (in more arid climates or dryer seasons, sorbitol can actually do the reverse and take water from your skin and put it in the air, so I'd recommend using a different product, or using a home humidifier to keep the air moist). Allantoin, like Aloe, is healing and draws water to the skin. Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (Green Tea) is another common ingredient because it's full of antioxidants, which help keep skin cells healthy. 

Not all moisturizers have to be creams--some are light-weight gels. I love recommending gels for use in the morning under makeup, or for people with oily or acne-prone skin. The skin is still hydrated, but doesn't feel tacky or greasy. I specifically like Growth Factor Gel and Blushed Wine Gel, both of which are from Rhonda Allison. Found in the Growth Factor Gel, Epidermal Growth Factor (it's scientific name is rh-Oligopeptide-1 and it is sometimes referred to as EGF for short) is a type of peptide, and a vital protein that is found naturally in human fibroblasts (the cells responsible for making collagen). They increase cell renewal and assist in wound-healing. Moisturizers are typically very rich in performance ingredients that target anti-aging. Many brands have a one-size-fits-all sentiment for anti-aging moisturizers, though, which can cause problems for oilier skins, since many are targeted for individuals looking to reverse the signs of aging rather than prevent them. Since oil production tapers off as we age, these creams are rich in ingredients like Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), and Mineral Oil, which sit on top of the skin, keeping water trapped underneath. They are good in small quantities, but too much can either cause the skin to rely on it for moisture, and stop producing oil on its own, or can make the skin become clogged because it is too heavy.

Serums

Serums are products with high concentrations of performance ingredients. They are sometimes formulated with smaller molecules so the ingredients are better absorbed deep in the skin, where they can do the most good. Serums are often layered under moisturizers or used in place of moisturizers. I love recommending clients add a serum under their moisturizer for additional hydration in harsh winter weather--when the weather becomes more appealing, they don't have to switch moisturizers, they can just discontinue use of the serum. 

Serums often have antioxidants like L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C)--an antioxidant that is essential to collagen production, Retinol (Vitamin A)--which helps normalize a cell's DNA to assist in repair, and D-Alpha Tocopherol (Vitamin E)--a natural moisturizer that aids in repairing the skin with natural preservative properties. Product examples include Rhonda Allison's Super C Serum, Therapy A Serum, Therapy E Serum, and Antioxidant Complex Serum as well as PCA's A&C Synergy Serum.

Another type of ingredient commonly found is peptides. They are amino acids that are linked together to from a specific grouping, they stimulate fibroblasts and signal the skin to produce more protein, increasing the skins' firmness, tone, and diminish fine lines. Examples of peptides are Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Caprooyl Tetrapeptide-3, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide (also seen on labels as Matrixyl or Matrixyl 3000), Marine Oligopeptide,and L-Carnosine. These can be found in Satin Peptide, Amino Peptide Serum, Youth Essence Peptide Serum, MVC Serum, and many other Rhonda Allison products. They can also be found in PCA's ExLinea Peptide Smoothing Serum and G.M. Collin's Bota-peptide 5 Complex. As mentioned above, Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF) is another kind of peptide, and can be found in PCA's Rejuvenating Serum.


L-Sodium Hyaluronate (Hyaluronic acid) is also found in many serums (and moisturizers for that matter). It naturally occurs in the body and draws water to the skin. It's found in Rhonda Allison's appropriately named Hyaluronic Serum, as well as many other of her serums and moisturizers. Hylauronic Acid is also the main ingredient used in the injectable fillers Restylane, Perlane, Hylaform and Juvederm.


Other serums are targeted at correcting problems other than lack of moisture or wrinkled skin, like Rosacea, Acne, or discoloration. Common in rosacea products, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Diprpoylene Glycol, Betula Alba Bark Extract, and Scrophularia Nodosa Extract all improve the skins barrier function to decrease skin's vulnerability and reaction to inflammation. They also help reduce extreme swelling and heat associated with this inflammatory condition, and protects from UV exposure. Salix Alba Bark Extract (White Willow) contains glycoside salicin which acts as an analgesic (topical numbing solution) the skin to be less affected by extreme hot or cold temperatures. Salicylic Acid is common in products targeting acne (Rhonda Allison's Blemish Serum, PCA's Acne Gel, G.M. Collin Derm Renewal Gel), as is Sulfur, Resorcinol, and Benzoyl Peroxide (All of these are discussed more in my post about Acne). Great product picks with BPO include Rhonda Allison's Blemish Complex, and PCA's BPO Cleanser and Acne Cream. Other great ingredients for treating acne are Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil (Tea Tree) which is known for healing, antiseptic qualities, and Fomes Officinallis (Mushroom extract), which inhibitis tyrosinase (the enzyme that produces melanin--the pigment of the skin) and is also antibacterial. This can prevent the little dark reminders of past acne from sticking around. As far as lightening products go, Hydroquinone is a chemical that is another tyrosinase inhibitor (like the mushroom extract). It is the only lightening ingredient recognized by the FDA and is available in a concentration of 2% in Rhonda Allison's Skin Brightening Gel or PCA's Pigment Gel. Other ingredients that help lighten excess pigmentation include Kojic Acid, and Azelaic Acid--which are somewhat more gentle tyrosinase inhibitors and lightening agents. L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) is also said to help reduce excess pigmentation. These and other ingredients are found in Rhonda Allison's Naturale Mega Brightening Serum, Skin Brightening Cleanser, Skin Brightening Scrub, and Brightening Cream Enhancer and PCA's hydroquinone-free version of Pigment Gel.

Exfoliants

Exfoliation, in my opinion, is one of the best possible tools you can use to improve the skin--almost every skin condition is bettered by introducing exfoliation. Different types can achieve somewhat different results, but it is generally accepted that exfoliating the skin helps generate new skin cells (since the old cells must be replaced), helping to keep the skin rejuvenated and young. It obviously helps the texture of the skin to become softer and smoother (just as sandpaper helps a piece of a wood become smooth), it increases the skin's circulation, keeps the pores clear to prevent acne from forming, reduces pigmentation problems, and helps products that you use to penetrate more easily--allowing them to be more effective.

There are a few different kinds of exfoliants:

Mechanical exfoliation are ways of physically sloughing off the skin cells--like using a clarisonic brush when you cleanse, using a scrub that has beads or crystals in it (like jojoba beads, or corundum crystals), or even microdermabrasion (which sprays corundum crystals across the skin--kind of like sandblasting). I do not like exfoliants that use pieces of fruit pits, like St. Ive's Apricot Scrub, because the particles are jagged and can cause microscopic tears in the skin--aggravating it more than necessary. A good scrub should have tiny round spheres. Sugar and salt scrubs can be good for the body, but something designed for the face should be smaller to get the best results--also if you choose a salt scrub for the body, keep in mind it could sting if you have any knicks from shaving, or razor burn. Rhonda Allison's Clarifying Beads provide a very gentle exfoliation using jojoba beads.


Chemical exfoliation reaches further, by using acids that can be absorbed into the skin, actually exfoliating inside the follicle. Look for ingredients like Lactic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Glycolic Acid, and Mandelic Acid (derived from Almonds).

Enzyme exfoliation delivers results similar to chemical exfoliation. It too is absorbed into the skin, exfoliating inside the follicle. These enzymes--like the digestive enzymes found in human saliva and the human pancreas that help break down food--work similarly on the skin to literally digest the skin cells it comes in contact with. Enzymes are generally m ore gentle than most acids. Commonly used enzymes include Papain (papaya), Bromelain (pineapple), Pepsin (found in various plants) Cucurbita Pepo (pumpkin) and even Pancreatin (taken from cows). I personally don't like using Pancreatin, since there are so many other more appealing enzyme options. Rhonda Allison's Pumpkin Parfait Enzyme is a perfect example. (none of Rhonda Allison's products contain Pancreatin to my knowledge)

Combinations of Mechanical, Chemical, and Enzyme Exfoliation are also common. Rhonda Allison's Beta Action Scrub combines jojoba beads with Salicylic Acid. Pumice Wash combines jojoba beads with pumice grains (ground up pumice stone), Lactic Acid, and Salicylic Acid. When I recommend clients use these at home, I often suggest they leave them in the shower--they can massage it in like any other scrub, and leave it on for 3-5 minutes like a mask--so the acids have a chance to work. While it sits, they can go about shaving and/or and washing their hair---rinsing it off when they're done. A Gommage is the term used for a product that uses both enzyme and mechanical exfoliation. Rhonda Allison's Derma Peel does exactly that. It's one of my favorite products, not only because it delivers great results--but it's also pretty fun to use! Gommages typically have an enzyme that works while the product is left to dry on the skin--once it is dry, it is rolled off the skin---the friction caused by rolling it off mechanically exfoliates. This particular one works slightly differently: It starts off feeling like a thick gel, as you massage it onto the skin it becomes more of a thin liquid consistency, as you massage it further, you will start noticing little pieces starting to form as it becomes almost like a scrub---the pieces that form are actually the ingredients sticking together with your dead skin cells to exfoliate even further. It's very gentle, but super effective.  One product I like that is a traditional gommage is Source Vital's Citrus Peel. I personally still use this product, although I no longer work for a company that retails it. Source Vital is manufactured in Houston, so it should be pretty easy to get your hands on. The company was founded by one of my former Employers, Brea Pope Gratia, owner of Sanctuary Spa D'Sante. Yet another possibility is combining enzymes with acids. Rhonda Allison's Skin Brightening Enzyme uses Papain along with Salicylic Acid and Kojic Acid. The Cherry Jubilee Enzyme uses Bromelain along with Lactic Acid and Salicylic Acid [it has cherry in the name because it also uses Prunus Speciosa (Cherry)--known for their soothing and anti-inflammatory properties]. 

Masks

Masks are honestly one of the very last things I recommend for use at home. I think they can certainly be beneficial to the skin, but I think exfoliants (and all the other products) are far more important--it's with exfoliants that you see the most dramatic results and improvement. I do like using masks during facials--I recommend keeping them refrigerated (especially if they contain fruit-based ingredients) to not only preserve them longer, but also to use the coolness of the mask to help soothe and refresh your skin. I find this technique (refrigeration) especially beneficial to calm the skin and help take the redness out of skin that has been vigorously exfoliated and stimulated with steam and extractions.

There are many different kinds of masks. Gel and cream-based masks are often soothing and hydrating--they don't harden, which makes for easier removal--something people with sensitive or rosacea skin can appreciate.  Clay masks usually are stimulating, firming, and absorb oil. They dry or harden when left on and can sometimes be difficult to remove. Kaolin and Bentonite are some of the most commonly used clays. If you have ever worked with ceramics, or grew up in Virginia playing in Virginia red clay like I did, you know firsthand how quickly clay absorbs moisture. Because these have great firming effects, some formulas will have Glycerine, Shea Butter,Vitus Vinifera Seed Extract (Grape-lubricant), Squalane, and other ingredients to prevent it from being too drying. This makes them appropriate even for drier skin types. Rhonda Allison's Grape Seed Parfait Mask, Impure Skin Mask, and Beta Refine Mask all use both Kaolin and Bentonite. 

L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) is common in masks, as is D-Alpha Tocopherol (Vitamin E) and even Resveratrol is popping up in many masks (like the Grape Seed Parfait). Some masks may contain ingredients like Menthol (derived from peppermint) for it's antibacterial, cooling, and stimulating effects. Lycopene (an antioxidant plentiful in tomatoes) is becoming more common in masks. One I've used and liked before with lycopene is Eminence Organic's Tomato Lycopene Masque. Antioxidants like Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (Green Tea) or more specifically Epigallocatechin Gallate (EGCG--the main polyphenol, a type antioxidant, derived from green tea) are common in masks as well. Calendula Officinalis (Marigold) and Azulene (derived from German Chamomile) are also very popular in soothing masks because they have healing, anti-inflammatory, and anti-itching properties. Algae and Seaweed common, particularly in body masks and wraps for it's antioxidant, firming, and detoxifying properties. Sulfur is also pretty common in masks because it is beneficial for oily or acne-prone skin.

Eye and Lip Products

Many eye products contain similar ingredients that facial moisturizers do. Many are somewhat lighter, or contain lower concentrations of powerful ingredients used on the face because the skin in this area is so delicate. Common ingredients are L-Sodium Hylarunate (hyaluronic acid---for moisture), Retinol (Vitamin A--for anti-aging benefits), several different peptides, Lactic Acid, and L-Ascorbic Acid (vitamin C). Some product picks are the Rhonda Allison's Moisture Eye Treatment, and Peptide 3-in-1 Eye Cream and PCA's EyeXcellence, and G.M. Collin's Bota-Peptide Eye Contour Cream. L-Arbutin is a gentle lightening ingredient, and Mica is a mineral that reflects light is sometimes used in certain products targeted toward reducing undereye darkness, but obviously results are temporary. Examples of products containing L-Arbutin and Mica are Rhonda Allison's Eye Revitalizer and Daylight Eye Parfait.  

Rhonda Allison's Eye & Lip Repair Serum has both the Vitamin C and Retinol. I personally love it for the lips as an overnight lip moisturizer, but hate the thick texture around my eyes. PCA's Peptide Lip Therapy has a similar consistency, and also works nicely on my lips over night (either could also be used in lieu of a clear gloss during the day) but they are too thick for layering anything over. G.M. Collin's Lip "Plumping" Complex contains collagen and hyaluronic acid. I think the texture is nice, and it helps the condition of the skin on my lips--but I didn't notice additional fullness. It tingles a lot like other plumping products including Lip Venom; I think they probably can increase the fullness of the lip--but only because they irritate the lips to the point of edema (swelling). On my lips during the day, nothing beats the feel of Nivea's Kiss of Moisture. It feels extremely light on the skin (surprising since it has microcrystalline wax, castor oil, carnauba wax, and shea butter--all somewhat heavier ingredients that help trap moisture in the skin) but it also has ingredients like jojoba seed oil and grape seed oil. It doesn't affect any other lip products I wear over it (lipstick or gloss) and it's the one of two lip products my husband will still kiss me when I'm wearing (he says other things feel too sticky, this he doesn't even notice is on...).  The other product I really like for lips is M.A.C.'s Lip Conditioner SPF 15 and Tinted Lip Conditioner SPF 15. It feels really smooth and light going on. It contains some of the same ingredients the Nivea product does, plus vitamins A and E, almond oil, and avocado oil (both excellent moisturizers).

The higher on the list it is, the higher the concentration it is

Ingredients are listed in order from those used in the highest percentage to those in the lowest percentage. Once it gets to ingredients used in concentrations of 1% or lower, they do not have to be listed in any particular order (although as a group they all must appear lowest in the list). The most common cosmetic ingredient is Aqua (water) followed very closely by the most common botanical ingredient, Aloe. Many performance ingredients are in the middle or bottom of the ingredients list, because they use smaller quantities. If you want something truly powerful to fight wrinkles, for example, you may compare two ingredients lists side-by-side. If Retinol is the fifth ingredient listed on one, and the tenth ingredient on the other---your best bet is the one listing Retinol as the fifth ingredient, because it likely contains a higher percentage of it.

This is just the tip of the iceberg.   

There are hundreds of thousands of effective (and not-so-effective) cosmetic ingredients out there. These are some you can look for that have proven to me (and many researchers) that they can provide the results they promise. Good luck!

Keeping you beautiful (and informed) one post at a time,

Kate Block

Your Skin Doesn't Stop Below Your Neck: Tips for Great Skin Head to Toe

There was a tie between the second and third options in the poll, so I just picked one to do first.  Next week I will discuss Acne, and the week after, product formulation & ingredients.

There are so many body woes! Hopefully I'll be able to cover most of the common ones.

Tell your face to share!

If you have a chest with sunspots and a crepey texture, it can really add on the years. Many people take the time and effort to care for the skin on their face, and skip the rest of their bodies. Take a little extra product and just a few extra seconds to spread your serums, moisturizers, and sunscreens down a little farther. Most people know to include their necks in their routine, but you don't have to stop once you reach the collar bones. I recommend covering the chest down to the breastbone. You may even want to cover the breast tissue to keep the skin there firm and supple (especially if you like to wear more revealing tops). It also isn't a bad idea to cover the tops of the shoulders.

I know what you may be thinking: My facial products are expensive! I don't want to waste it! I'll go through so much more this way!   That's true. But why is your face worth it, and your body isn't? We're not all made of money, but when you think of how much money is spent on high-end luxury beauty products and services, plastic surgeries, and laser treatments, prevention is usually much more cost-effective.

I get it though, if you don't want to "waste" your facial products on your body, try looking for excellent body care products. It doesn't make sense to me to spend good money on the products you use on your face, only to skimp on your body.

Faces are treated to products with cutting edge ingredients, even if you don't know a lot about skincare, you've probably heard of peptides, antioxidants, maybe even Epidermal Growth Factor. These are all fantastic representations of technological advancements in the beauty industry---but rarely are these found in body care products.  But now that you know to look for them, you can.

I know I mention the line a lot, but it's because I truly feel it's one of the best out there--Rhonda Allison-- has developed a body line that incorporates many of the same ingredients used in facial care products.  It does make the products more expensive than you may be used to spending, but when you think about your willingness to spend even just $35 on a moisturizer for your face, it makes sense to pay $70 on just one of these products, just because the size of the container is likely 2-3 times the size of your facial moisturizer. You're paying for more product. I know it can still be a hard pill to swallow if you're only used to paying $20 for a body moisturizer: but that's where you come in---you decide what's right for you. Is it worth it to know that you're doing something better for your skin, and invest in something more expensive? Is it something that you can rotate in (buy the $20 moisturizer now, buy the $70 the next time you need one, etc.)? Can you buy both and mix one pump of each together to make the more expensive one last longer, but still have some of the benefits of the more cutting edge ingredients?

exfoliate more, moisturize less.

It is great to be in the habit of moisturizing your skin, but unfortunately you won't be doing much if your skin can't absorb it. By regularly exfoliating your skin, you are keeping your follicles open so they can absorb moisturizers better, you are stimulating for newer, healthier cells to replace the ones you have sloughed off, all while making the texture of your skin more soft and smooth.

I prefer enzymes and mild acid exfoliation over scrubs.  I don't mind scrubs, and they can do a decent job; but they can only be massaged on the surface of the skin and literally knock off the skin cells there. Natural enzymes and mild acids are so small they can actually penetrate into the follicle, and therefor exfoliate deeper.

Try looking for a shower gel that contains ingredients like papaya enzymes (papain) pineapple enzymes (bromelain), pumpkin enzymes, Azaelic Acid, Lactic Acid, or Salicylic Acid. Rhonda Allison makes two shower gels--one called Mintopia, uses Lactic Acid to exfoliate and Menthol to stimulate; The Fruit Enzyme Wash uses kiwi, papaya, mango, vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid), and Malic Acid. (Side note--although I love Mintopia, and it is gentle enough for your nether-regions...I wouldn't recommend using it or any other product containing Menthol there unless you like a cooling tingly sensation down there)

Cleopatra was on to something with her milk baths. She was known for having soft, beautiful skin. It's not because milk was a moisturizer--it's because it was an exfoliant. The lactic acid which naturally occurs in milk smoothed her skin, keeping it soft and glowing.Try switching to a nice, exfoliating body wash and using a  regular sunscreen, and you may be able to even skip the fancy moisturizers for awhile (or at least use them less often).

Some ingredients like shea butter and cocoa butter are fantastic in small quantities--they are oils that have higher melting points, so at room temperature they are thick, and form an occlusion on the skin (a barrier that prevents moisture from evaporating). This can be helpful, especially if the product also contains naturally moisturizing ingredients like sorbitol, glycerine, and hyaluronic acid. If, however, there is too much shea or cocoa butter in the formula, your body may continue producing dry skin because it relies on you to supply these oils to soften it, instead of producing its own oil. I like moisturizers like the Exotica Rhodiola Body Lotion by Rhonda Allison, which incorporates peptides and antioxidants traditionally only found in moisturizers formulated for the face. It is lightly scented, absorbs well, and leaves the skin with a non-sticky finish.

Leave the "Chicken Bumps" for the Chickens

There are all sorts of unsightly bumps that can pop up on the body. Luckily most of them can be resolved with various types of exfoliation. These are the most common:

small, rough bumps that look like goosebumps on the back of the upper arms- these are technically called keratosis pilaris. It is basically a skin condition where the follicle is not expelling used skin cells properly, so it becomes clogged and produces a tiny bump. it can be remedied by exfoliation. enzyme or chemical exfoliation is best for remedying these because scrubs can sometimes be too irritating for the condition. If using an exfoliating shower gel regularly doesn't help clear it up, Rhonda Allison's Ultra Exfolee is an exfoliating cream that can be applied and should help alleviate the condition. A common product on the market, designed with this particular condition in mind is KP Duty by Dermadoctor.

breakouts on your body: typically the back, thighs, chest, etc- I'd recommend using an exfoliating cleansing product designed for the body with Salicylic acid. Salicylic acid is one of the few ingredients recognized by the FDA to treat acne, and is available over the counter in concentrations as high as 2%. Rhonda Allison makes a Body Blemish Bar that contains the ingredient. You can lather it with a loofah or wash cloth and use it to cleanse the affected areas of the body. Another popular product for this is Murad's Acne Body Wash.  Before I discovered Rhonda Allison, I had my husband use this, and he saw fantastic results.

Ingrown hairs and razor bumps on the bikini line, underarms, legs, etc- Once again, exfoliation is (one of) the key(s). Salicylic acid is great for this because it is an anti-inflammatory. It is chemically related to aspirin, so it helps reduce redness and swelling, while exfoliating the follicle so the hair does not become trapped. In this way it can help both prevent new bumps from forming, while treating those that are already present. An exfoliating body wash may be enough, but if it isn't, try a product like PFB Vanish. It is available at norris of houston and many other fine spas. It does contain a little bit of alcohol, for its antiseptic properties, so when I use it, it often stings just a little. It's convenient because it comes in a roller-ball, so you don't have to get goop all over your fingers, or find a cotton ball to use for application. I use it on my legs and underarms after shaving or waxing. My underarms are VERY sensitive and always get red, itchy, and irritated if I don't use this. I have tried other products like TendSkin and NoBump (which in my opinion are almost the exact same product as eachother) and did not get results from them. Plus, in my opinion, they stung a lot more, and were not in the roller ball. I didn't mind Prince Reigns Ingrown Hair Serum, but I ended up not using it consistently because I didn't like the texture of it, and how long it needed to dry (especially if I used it on my bikini area---I just wanted to put my underwear back on and move on with my life). According to their website, however, it is a personal favorite of Oprah's and of Gisele Bundchen's.

Smooth it on out

Two somewhat controversial maladies are cellulite and stretch marks. It is my opinion that some products can reduce the appearance of these, but the results are limited.  To prevent stretch marks from occurring during times of weight fluctuation it is advisable to use a moisturizing serum containing vitamin E, which helps the skin to repair, and aids the skin's elasticity.  After stretch marks have already formed, exfoliation may help reduce the appearance, but results are typically cumulative, and do take time to notice. You may need several treatments (microdermabrasion, chemical peels) and diligent home care to see noticeable results. Some lasers tout dramatic results; I do not know anyone personally who has tried this, and therefor cannot say definitively that they work.

Cellulite is said to benefit from from stimulation. Coffee extract, and caffeine in general are common ingredients found in products aimed at improving its uneven appearance. Treatments that are helpful can involve vigorous massage that helps physically break apart the deposits so that they lay more smoothly, firming LED (Light Emitting Diode) treatments, and endermologie. norris of houston offers a treatment that incorporates a half hour cellulite-break down massage with a massage therapist, followed by a half hour with an esthetician, including Mintopia exfoliating wash (to cleanse and invigorate), Rhonda Allison's Bamboo Scrub (to smooth and further stimulate), a red LED therapy application (to firm), and finally a finishing application of Rhonda Allison's Peptide Spritz (from her body line---which takes advantage of coffee extract) and Exotica Rhodiola Body Lotion.

In addition to products and treatments, it is recommended to consider healthy methods of weight loss, low sodium diets, and detoxification to further reduce the appearance of cellulite.  Keep in mind that many people with fantastic bodies, including top model Tyra Banks have cellulite. And to some extent, it may be something you can learn to love about yourself.

I personally have been using the peptide spritz for a couple of weeks; I have not had any treatments done, am in the process of losing weight, and do have a low-sodium diet. I did not take a "before" picture to make comparisons with, but so far, I have not noticed an improvement in my cellulite.  I do however, think my skin feels much softer and smoother. It has also been an excellent hydrator on my chest and arms. Although I do not suffer from dry crepey skin, I have also seen it work well on clients with this problem, especially on the neck, chest, shoulders, and arms.

Protect and Prevent

If you do not currently have thin, crepey skin, or uneven pigmentation, it will save you a LOT of trouble, if you prevent it from occuring by protecting yourself with a quality sunscreen. If you already have any of these conditions, know that it is still helpful to prevent it from worsening and to protect yourself from skin cancer. Also be advised that with many lightening ingredients (like Kojic acid, Azaelic acid, Retinol, and Hydroquinone)---it is imperitive that you use a sunscreen, since they may make your skin more susceptible to burn, and can cause pigmentation to actually worsen when exposed to the sun without protection.

None of us are perfect

We all have flaws--not all of us have the time or money to fix them all.  Part of beauty is confidence, own up to it, know that you are beautiful, and you will be beautiful

Keeping you beautiful (and smooth) one post at a time,

Kate Block

*The products I recommend in this and other blog posts are products I have personally experienced and/or am very familiar with, and am comfortable recommending. If you do not have access to Rhonda Allison's products, I encourage you to find products with similar goals and ingredients. If you have access to an ingredient list of a product you think may be comparable, I would be happy to give you my thoughts on it!