Different Kinds of Acne and Successful Home Treatment Options

This is going to be a lengthy post. Unfortunately, acne isn't as simple as a one-sentance or even a one-paragraph or one-page solution. Different things work for different people, and different kinds of acne. Although an esthetician or doctor can put you on products with ingredients that have a great track record, it still may not work effectively for you. Unfortunately your routine may need gradual tweaking through trial and error. However, through experience, we'll be more equipped to recommend something that will work its best than you will probably be perusing the rows and rows of products at the drug store.


Coming to terms with it

We've likely all experienced acne at some point in our lives. It's important to accept it as a fact of life. Many people are genetically predisposed to acne-prone skin, but other factors including environment and hormone fluctuation can affect acne formation. The idea that acne only affects teenagers is one of the most widely held misconceptions about this common skin condition. In 1998 Neutrogena conducted a survey of women between 25 and 39, and discovered that 59% of them had suffered from some kind of breakout in the last year. 

Why some so-called remedies don't work

For starters, everywhere you turn there is a product that promises you clear, smooth skin--the sheer quantity is part of the issue. It becomes difficult to choose, and to figure out which ingredients are honestly effective.  Because there are various kinds of acne (inflammatory, non-inflammatory, whiteheads, blackheads, papules, pustules...) different ingredients are also better for different kinds.

Unfortunately, if you've sought help from a dermatologist, many aren't very good at conveying exactly how they intend the medication to be used, how they work, and how long it will be before you see results. Misuse can cause side-effects like over-drying, causing frustration, and eventually discontinued use.

Just like losing weight, treating acne (or any other skin condition for that matter, such as hyperpigmentation or wrinkles) requires patience and most of all consistency. No matter how perfect the plan you, your esthetician, or even your dermatologist devises for you---it will never work if you don't stick to it.

De-bunking the myths

Long ago, many people (including doctors!) thought that rich or greasy foods made the skin excessively oily, causing acne. It seemed a reasonable assumption--but it is coincidental that many people crave mood-elevating chocolate, or sometimes greasy, salty foods when they are under stress or for women, when they are on their menstruation cycle---both of which can trigger acne.

It's also a wide misconception that blemished skin is caused by poor hygiene.  Acne is not caused by unclean skin, but rather, by using products with effective ingredients, it can help alleviate the problem. For example, you do not get strep throat because you didn't take antibiotics---but antibiotics can heal the illness. You could diligently use an expensive, well-formulated product, that just doesn't have the right ingredients for your skin, or your condition--and still have regular breakouts.

There are two kinds of "pores" on your face. One are your hair follicles, the tiny openings out of which, hair grows. The other are miniscule openings to sweat glands. oil glands are only present in the hair follicles, which means that sweat glands and sweat production are not directly linked to acne.

To better understand how acne is formed, you need to know this first:

Sebum is a technical term for oil. Oil is produced by the body as a natural lubricant and moisturizer for the skin. It is important to help the skin to stretch with your every move (think about how your skin stretches over your knee when you bend your leg---the skin would simply crack if it were not kept lubricated).  If you've ever accidentally put a bottle of olive oil in the refrigerator like I have, you'll know that when it's chilled, it solidifies--becoming thick and dense. This is one of the reasons why in facials, estheticians use steam and hot towels---to soften the oil, making it easier to press out of the skin.

Sebum (oil) is produced in the "sebaceous gland" which is attached near the base of each hair follicle. This allows the hair to effectively wick the oil to the surface of the skin.

How it all happens

Although high quantities of oil may help acne to form, it does not guarantee a break out---there are many people with oily skin who are not acne-prone, and even several people who actually have dry skin, that are prone to acne.

Acne starts when something goes wrong with the skin cells that line the follicular walls.  These cells are an extension of the top layer of the skin, which folds in and out of the follicles.  The top layer of the skin regularly replaces itself as a normal part of skin renewal--forming a new layer of skin at the bottom, and pushing new cells toward the surface. The skin cells are lost during regular human contact--rubbing against clothing, or being washed away in the shower. Humans discard skin cells at more than a million every hour.

For some reason, there is a glitch in the system in some of these follicles.  Acne-prone follicles produce new skin cells at a faster rate than normal cells, causing an excess of skin cells that mix with oil, stick together, and are retained in the follicle causing a blockage. The follicle continues to produce more skin cells, and more oil--keeping them blocked, often causing a visible bump under the skin.

Some lesions stay like this, a "papule" that has no head, and cannot be squeezed out of the skin. Some continue to grow, pressing open the follicle at the top of the skin. Once it is exposed to air, it oxidizes, turning dark brown or black in color (Just like an apple browns after it is cut and exposed to air). These are known as "blackheads"

Some of the lesions take a different course in the papule stage, and turn into "whiteheads". Instead of growing upward and pressing the follicle open, they stay where they are, expanding beneath the pore, which stays constricted. It enlarges into a knot, typically with a tiny white tip at the surface.

Both whiteheads and blackheads can be extracted (pressed from the skin during a treatment from an esthetician or dermatologist---it is not recommended that you do extractions at home, because if not done with the right technique, it can cause significant scarring that can at times be even more unsightly than the acne lesion).

In most cases, when the follicle is closed, it creates a perfect breeding ground for P.acnes bacteria, which are anaerobic (they cannot live in the presence of oxygen) and feed on sebum. This is one of the reasons why strong astringents containing alcohol often do not produce results---it can kill bacteria on the surface, but cannot penetrate and reach the P.acnes.  The bacteria can multiply quickly, and release chemicals that damage the lining of the follicle wall. White blood cells try to heal the problem by destroying the bacteria. This is called a "pustule" and is usually what is happening when an acne lesion feels swollen and tender to the touch. 

Unfortunately, with the follicular wall stretched so far and the damaging chemicals released from the P.acnes, the wall can rupture--spreading to neighboring follicles. (This can also happen manually---if you try to extract something that shouldn't be extracted at home--pressing on something without a head, will likely cause the follicle wall (underneath the skin) to "pop" spreading the bacteria under the surface, and actually taking it even longer to heal. This is what has happened when an "acne cyst" has formed.

So how do I treat it?

Treatment options vary, as it depends on the kind of acne it is treating. Occasionally a person may have all the different types present at once---others may only regularly have blackheads, or yet others, may only get papules. This will affect what is right for you. 

Because acne is a skin disorder, for a product to be truly effective, it needs to be a medecine or a drug. "Cosmetics" generally do not help.  Many products that are made to treat acne are actually over-the-counter medications. Just like you may buy ibuprofen over the counter, you can also get a prescription for a stronger dose of the same medication. It works the same way with topical drugs for the skin.  There are only four FDA-approved active ingredients for acne available in over-the-counter drugs. These must be properly labeled with something that looks somewhat like a nutrition facts label, specifying the "active ingredient" and it's concentration at the top.  Further down on the label, it will specify the "inactive ingredients" (those that are not classified as drugs). Many of these "inactive" ingredients do help, but are not recognized by the FDA. Tea tree oil, for instance is known for it's healing properties. Aloe and Allantoin are known as soothing and anti-inflammatory. Lemon is known as a natural astringent. No matter where you get your product, whether a spa, online, a department store, or the drug store, if it is a cosmetic "drug" with an ingredient recognized by the FDA to treat acne, it must contain one of these four ingredients.


Keep in mind that at times products are grouped together and sold in a set, or as a "line" where all the products are meant to be used at the same time (like Proactiv). In most cases this is done, so the manufacturer can use small quantities of the same ingredient in each product to produce the overall effect. Mixing and matching, therefor, can sometimes be difficult---if you use a cleanser from one line and a treatment lotion from another, you may come up with a treatment that is way too strong.


Try adding products one or two at a time so you have a clear idea of what is improving your skin, what could be giving you a bad reaction, and also to prevent over-irritation. Remember, a good skin care routine does not have to be complicated. Most of the time I recommend acne clients an appropriate cleanser, treatment lotion, and sunscreen. Occasionally I may recommend a moisturizer, depending on the situation.

To get the best results from these drugs, you need to know how they work, and what kind of acne it treats best.

Benzoyl Peroxide- (sometimes spelled Benzyl Peroxide)

Benzoyl peroxide is effective at treating both inflammatory and non-inflammatory kinds of acne. It is the most effective of the four ingredients at ridding the skin of blackheads in particular, but is effective in treating the other kinds of acne as well.

"Peroxide" implies that the chemical compound contains oxygen atoms.  As previously discussed, P.acnes bacteria cannot live in the presence of oxygen.  This particular ingredient is small enough it can be absorbed into the skin, and expose the bacteria to oxygen--therefor killing it. Without the bacteria, there will be no need for the white blood cells to accumulate, causing pus and inflammation.

Other ingredients containing Oxygen have not proven to be as effective, since they often are not small enough to deliver the oxygen where it is needed to kill the bacteria.

Unfortunately most products containing Benzoyl Peroxide are marketed or labeled in a way that is misleading. Most of these products are called "spot treatments". This leads you to assume that when you have a break out, you simply apply the product to only the blemishes (the "spots"), and they go away. However, it is the least effective when used in this manner. Even Rhonda Allison's product labeling says "Apply Blemish Complex directly to acne blemishes and let dry. For best personal results use one to four times a week as an effective acne spot treatment".

 Saying this with personal and professional experience, and backed with scientific research: Benzoyl peroxide should be used to "spot treat" areas that typically break out by covering the entire area with a thin layer of product. It may help reduce the appearance of current lesions, but will do it's job as a preventative treatment to future breakouts. In other words, if you typically break out only on the forehead---you would apply the product in a thin layer over the entire forehead---but you do not need to apply it anywhere else---you are only treating that spot. If you only break out on your cheeks---the same thing.  If, however, you break out in no particular pattern---sometimes on the nose, sometimes on the cheeks, sometimes on the forehead, sometimes on the chin---it is acceptable to apply it to the entire face.

Benzoyl Peroxide can be very hard on the skin--causing redness, dryness, and scaling. Fortunately, many products containing it also feature soothing, moisturizing ingredients to counter these effects. Rhonda Allison's Blemish Complex contains 5.25% Benzoyl Peroxide as it's active ingredient but also features Glycerine (an ingredient that attracts and keeps water in the skin), Allantoin (from the Comfrey plant, also helps with water levels, and provides soothing, wound-healing effects), and Aloe (helps with hydration, soothing, anti-inflammatory) as inactive ingredients. PCA also makes Acne Cream which contains 5% Benzoyl Peroxide, and similar inactive ingredients.

Also, if these products are used appropriately, it is easy to avoid many of these side effects. Available in concentrations up to 10% over-the-counter many consumers and manufacturers alike often think "more is better", but according to a number of studies: Benzoyl peroxide's antibacterial effects are similar at 2.5%, 5%, and 10%, but with higher percentages, the likelihood of dryness and irritation also increases.  I recommend beginning use of the product once a day, every other day for about 2 weeks. After that time, you can increase use to once a day, every day for 2 weeks. If at that time, the condition has dissipated, this may be a sufficient dosage. If acne lesions are still present, you may increase the application to 2x every other day and 1x each alternative day for 2 weeks, finally increasing to 2x every day if necessary.  By slowly introducing the ingredient, your body is less likely to react negatively. You can also try using a cleanser containing the ingredient. It can be less irritating because the benzoyl peroxide does not stay on the skin for a long period of time, but it can also be slightly less effective for the same reason. 

For those with particularly stubborn acne (like my husband) I recommend cleansing with a product containing BPO (short for Benzoyl Peroxide) at least 1x a day (I do recommend weaning yourself on, though, just like with the cream) and then applying the cream 2x daily.  Rhonda Allison does not make a cleanser like this, but PCA (which stands for Physician's Choice of Arizona, if anyone was curious...) does. It is fittingly named BPO Cleanser and contains 5%.

Rhonda Allison also recommends following application of Blemish Complex with her Growth Factor Gel---a product targeted at providing light moisture with healing effects.

Please keep in mind that BPO is a bleaching agent, which means that it can cause your hairline, eyebrows, or facial hair to gradually lighten if applied there. Similarly, if it is not completely dry, it may cause your towels or bed-linens to bleach.  I personally have not had this problem while using Rhonda Allison's Blemish Complex or PCA's Acne Cream or BPO Cleanser, but my husband did practically destroy a towel when he was using a 10% BPO wash by Clean & Clear.  I don't know if my sheets have not been affected because of the finish or how color-fast the dye they used was, if it's because of the lower concentration of the Benzoyl Peroxide, or because of other ingredients in the formula. It could very well be a combination of any or all of those reasons.

Salicylic Acid-

Salicylic acid is derived from Wintergreen and Birch Bark. It is commonly referred to as a BHA, or Beta Hydroxy Acid. Chemically related to Aspirin, or Ibuprofen, Salicylic Acid similarly reduces inflammation, making this ingredient particularly good for tender, red, swollen lesions like pustules and cysts.  It can be good for other types of acne, but often I will use it and an ingredient like Benzoyl Peroxide in those cases. Because of it's relation to Aspirin, you should not use Salicylic acid if you are allergic to Aspirin.

Salicylic acid works in more ways than one. The first way is by helping reduce the inflammation, but the other is by exfoliating the skin cells.  As I mentioned in a previous post, I prefer mild acids or enzymes to exfoliate, because they can actually penetrate the skin, entering the follicle, and exfoliating more thoroughly than a scrub that just sits on the surface. Salicylic acid does exactly that. To treat acne, it is available over-the-counter in concentrations as high as 2%. The exfoliating action of salicylic acid helps reduce acne by chemically dissolving the excess skin cells that have been retained in the follicular wall---creating an opening that exposes the P.acnes to air, killing it, and also allowing the sebum to be properly wicked to the surface once again.

Although you can expect to notice a dramatic reduction in inflammation as soon as the next day of using Salicylic acid, it can take a seemingly long time for it to exfoliate enough to actually clear up the lesion on its own. Similar to BPO, it is best used as a spot treatment (applied in a thin film to the area you would normally break out) as a part of preventative maintenance.

I like combining the use of Salicylic Acid products with Benzoyl Peroxide for maximum efficacy of each. I feel that after the skin has been exfoliated by the Salicylic Acid, it becomes easier for the Benzoyl Peroxide to absorb and reach the affected area. Therefor, I may recommend you use a scrub like Pumice Wash 2-3x a week that contains Salicylic acid, or daily use of Beta Green Tea Cleanser, followed by an application of a lotion containing BPO.  You could also use a leave-on Salicylic Acid treatment like Rhonda Allison's Blemish Serum 1 or 2 times daily. Sometimes I may recommend you apply the Salicylic Acid product in the morning, and the BPO product at night---so you aren't applying too many products at once, but you can get the benefits of each. The reason I recommend they be applied in that order is so you are exfoliating first, allowing the BPO to penetrate further when you apply it at night. It is common for it to feel like it stings a little when applied, but the stinging dies down as the product dries.

I also love administering treatments in the spa using higher concentrations of Salicylic Acid. As I mentioned, it is only available over-the-counter in concentrations up to 2%, but can be handled by estheticians in concentrations of up to 30%. I have seen fantastic results doing peels with Rhonda Allison's Salicylic Peeling Cream with a concentration of 25%. It's a great way to jump-start any acne treatment regimen (Unless of course, you are allergic to Aspirin). It is applied in a thin even layer to the skin, and allowed to work for 10-20 minutes. It can feel anywhere from mildly irritating, to itchy, "hot", stinging, or even "burning" sensations. This is perfectly normal. The discomfort can be off-set with a hand-held fan, and most of my clients say it is worth it in the end. (I'll also distract you with an awesome neck, chest, and shoulder massage!)

One of the only catches with Salicylic Acid is that because it is an acid it is only effective when the product is within a particular range on the pH scale. [As a reminder: the pH scale goes from 1-14, with 1 through 6 being acids, 7 being neutral, and 8-14 being bases (also referred to as alkali) The closer to 1 the acid is, the stronger it is, and the closer to 14 the base is, the stronger it is. Acids with a pH of 1 or 2 and Bases with a pH of 13 or 14 will create a chemical burn.] The skin is naturally at a pH of 4.5 to 5.5 (it varies depending on the person, and other internal or external factors). In order to be most effective, the Salicylic acid needs to be more acidic, somewhere between a pH of 3 or 4, but also a mild enough acid that it will not be too irritating, or cause a burn. Surprisingly, many products do not fall within the appropriate pH range, making them significantly less effective than those that do.

The only other drawback is that because it is not soluble in water, many products containing it are also formulated with alcohol, which can be irritating and drying. However, most of these products also have ingredients like Green Tea and Tea Tree Oil to help offset the drying properties of the alcohol.

Sulfur, and Sulfur combined with Resorcinol-

Sulfur has been used to treat acne dating back hundreds of years. It is not seen nearly as frequently in OTC (over-the-counter) acne treatments as BPO or Salicylic Acid, though. It is deadly to many kinds of bacteria and softens scaly skin; And like Salicylic Acid, it too exfoliates and acts as an anti-inflammatory. It is most commonly found in spot treatments and masks. (like Rhonda Allison's Impure Skin Mask or Beta Refine Mask (which also contains 10% Salicylic Acid, and is allowed to be sold in higher concentrations than normally available over the counter because it is dispensed by a licensed esthetician)]

Studies have suggested that Sulfur combined with BPO is more effective than either of the two alone, but along with that, produces more sensitivity. Drugs containing both must be used carefully; many are available only by prescription.

It is particularly beneficial for those with fair hair, eyes, and skin--people who are most likely sensitive to Benzoyl Peroxide.

Resorcinol is not FDA approved to fight acne when used alone, but when coupled with Sulfur, it's stronger exfoliating properties allow Sulfur to become more effective.

 When sold in concentrations suitable for use over-the-counter, it's not FDA-approved to treat acne, but I think it's worth mentioning:

Retinol-

Otherwise known as vitamin A, retinol is the compound from which retinoic acid--the active ingredient in prescription drugs Retin-A, Avita, and Renova--is derived.  Retinol can be effective because enzymes already present in human skin manufacture it into trace amounts of retinoic acid.  It needs to be in the right concentration, and part of a very stabilized formula to work effectively.

Retinoic acid is effective against both inflammatory and uninflammatory acne. They are hormone-like chemical messengers whose molecules stick to receptors in skin cells to change the way it behaves.  In acne-prone skin, they turn abnormal cells that stick together in follicles into normal ones that exit the follicle like a normal cell would.  In sun-damaged skin cells, they also help "normalize" the cells that make up wrinkles and age spots.

Unfortunately irritation and peeling are side effects.  Like Benzoyl peroxide, products containing Retinol (or Retinoic acid) must be gradually introduced to the skin for the least amount of irritation.  A small amount may be applied over a moisturizer, or mixed with an equal amount of moisturizer, to dilute it and reduce the side effects as well.

Because of it's recognition from the FDA for reducing the visible signs of aging, this ingredient is particularly appealing for adults who would like to treat both acne and wrinkles or sunspots.

Retinol is popping up in more and more products mainly targeted at anti-aging. Unfortunately, at times this means the creams are also too heavy for skin plagued with acne. When using as a part of an acne regimen, look for a product with a gel-like consistency. You can always use a light moisturizer with it to balance your skin and reduce the side effects of dryness and irritation.(Rhonda Allison's Growth Factor Gel would work well with this, too).  Rhonda Allison's Retinol Supreme and Therapy A Serum could make great additions to many acne regimens.

You could once again consider a peel performed in a spa. Because Retinol can be so irritating, it is often paired with anti-inflammatory ingredients. Some Options include Rhonda Allison's Vitamin A Peel  which uses 15% Retinol and 10% Lactic acid. Much like the Salicylic Peeling Cream, this will likely feel itchy, tingly, or like it is hot/burning. With this, however, the sensation only lasts until it dries, after which time it is left on your skin overnight to be washed off the next morning. It will leave a yellow tint to your skin that evening, and will likely cause flaking a few days after application, causing 1-3 days of "downtime" so doing this on a Thursday when you plan to have a quiet weekend to yourself is recommended. (Often your skin will look normal the next day, and flaking begins 1 or 2 days later).

 Always, Always, Always wear a Sunscreen when on an Acne Routine

With sensitizing ingredients like Retinol, Salicylic Acid, and Benzoyl Peroxide, the skin is left even more vulnerable to the damaging rays of the sun. It is important that you end your morning routine with an application of an effective sunscreen.  If your makeup has sunscreen built in, I'd still recommend application of a separate sunscreen first---simply because with makeup you likely will not cover your neck, or push the product as close to your hair line. If you concentrate the makeup mainly in the areas that need it, some areas may go unprotected altogether.

Look for some of these ingredients, and try these tips. If your skin still doesn't improve *look for a post about prescription treatments in the future* and consult your dermatologist! 

Keeping you beautiful (and unblemished!) one post at a time,
Kate Block 

Your Skin Doesn't Stop Below Your Neck: Tips for Great Skin Head to Toe

There was a tie between the second and third options in the poll, so I just picked one to do first.  Next week I will discuss Acne, and the week after, product formulation & ingredients.

There are so many body woes! Hopefully I'll be able to cover most of the common ones.

Tell your face to share!

If you have a chest with sunspots and a crepey texture, it can really add on the years. Many people take the time and effort to care for the skin on their face, and skip the rest of their bodies. Take a little extra product and just a few extra seconds to spread your serums, moisturizers, and sunscreens down a little farther. Most people know to include their necks in their routine, but you don't have to stop once you reach the collar bones. I recommend covering the chest down to the breastbone. You may even want to cover the breast tissue to keep the skin there firm and supple (especially if you like to wear more revealing tops). It also isn't a bad idea to cover the tops of the shoulders.

I know what you may be thinking: My facial products are expensive! I don't want to waste it! I'll go through so much more this way!   That's true. But why is your face worth it, and your body isn't? We're not all made of money, but when you think of how much money is spent on high-end luxury beauty products and services, plastic surgeries, and laser treatments, prevention is usually much more cost-effective.

I get it though, if you don't want to "waste" your facial products on your body, try looking for excellent body care products. It doesn't make sense to me to spend good money on the products you use on your face, only to skimp on your body.

Faces are treated to products with cutting edge ingredients, even if you don't know a lot about skincare, you've probably heard of peptides, antioxidants, maybe even Epidermal Growth Factor. These are all fantastic representations of technological advancements in the beauty industry---but rarely are these found in body care products.  But now that you know to look for them, you can.

I know I mention the line a lot, but it's because I truly feel it's one of the best out there--Rhonda Allison-- has developed a body line that incorporates many of the same ingredients used in facial care products.  It does make the products more expensive than you may be used to spending, but when you think about your willingness to spend even just $35 on a moisturizer for your face, it makes sense to pay $70 on just one of these products, just because the size of the container is likely 2-3 times the size of your facial moisturizer. You're paying for more product. I know it can still be a hard pill to swallow if you're only used to paying $20 for a body moisturizer: but that's where you come in---you decide what's right for you. Is it worth it to know that you're doing something better for your skin, and invest in something more expensive? Is it something that you can rotate in (buy the $20 moisturizer now, buy the $70 the next time you need one, etc.)? Can you buy both and mix one pump of each together to make the more expensive one last longer, but still have some of the benefits of the more cutting edge ingredients?

exfoliate more, moisturize less.

It is great to be in the habit of moisturizing your skin, but unfortunately you won't be doing much if your skin can't absorb it. By regularly exfoliating your skin, you are keeping your follicles open so they can absorb moisturizers better, you are stimulating for newer, healthier cells to replace the ones you have sloughed off, all while making the texture of your skin more soft and smooth.

I prefer enzymes and mild acid exfoliation over scrubs.  I don't mind scrubs, and they can do a decent job; but they can only be massaged on the surface of the skin and literally knock off the skin cells there. Natural enzymes and mild acids are so small they can actually penetrate into the follicle, and therefor exfoliate deeper.

Try looking for a shower gel that contains ingredients like papaya enzymes (papain) pineapple enzymes (bromelain), pumpkin enzymes, Azaelic Acid, Lactic Acid, or Salicylic Acid. Rhonda Allison makes two shower gels--one called Mintopia, uses Lactic Acid to exfoliate and Menthol to stimulate; The Fruit Enzyme Wash uses kiwi, papaya, mango, vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid), and Malic Acid. (Side note--although I love Mintopia, and it is gentle enough for your nether-regions...I wouldn't recommend using it or any other product containing Menthol there unless you like a cooling tingly sensation down there)

Cleopatra was on to something with her milk baths. She was known for having soft, beautiful skin. It's not because milk was a moisturizer--it's because it was an exfoliant. The lactic acid which naturally occurs in milk smoothed her skin, keeping it soft and glowing.Try switching to a nice, exfoliating body wash and using a  regular sunscreen, and you may be able to even skip the fancy moisturizers for awhile (or at least use them less often).

Some ingredients like shea butter and cocoa butter are fantastic in small quantities--they are oils that have higher melting points, so at room temperature they are thick, and form an occlusion on the skin (a barrier that prevents moisture from evaporating). This can be helpful, especially if the product also contains naturally moisturizing ingredients like sorbitol, glycerine, and hyaluronic acid. If, however, there is too much shea or cocoa butter in the formula, your body may continue producing dry skin because it relies on you to supply these oils to soften it, instead of producing its own oil. I like moisturizers like the Exotica Rhodiola Body Lotion by Rhonda Allison, which incorporates peptides and antioxidants traditionally only found in moisturizers formulated for the face. It is lightly scented, absorbs well, and leaves the skin with a non-sticky finish.

Leave the "Chicken Bumps" for the Chickens

There are all sorts of unsightly bumps that can pop up on the body. Luckily most of them can be resolved with various types of exfoliation. These are the most common:

small, rough bumps that look like goosebumps on the back of the upper arms- these are technically called keratosis pilaris. It is basically a skin condition where the follicle is not expelling used skin cells properly, so it becomes clogged and produces a tiny bump. it can be remedied by exfoliation. enzyme or chemical exfoliation is best for remedying these because scrubs can sometimes be too irritating for the condition. If using an exfoliating shower gel regularly doesn't help clear it up, Rhonda Allison's Ultra Exfolee is an exfoliating cream that can be applied and should help alleviate the condition. A common product on the market, designed with this particular condition in mind is KP Duty by Dermadoctor.

breakouts on your body: typically the back, thighs, chest, etc- I'd recommend using an exfoliating cleansing product designed for the body with Salicylic acid. Salicylic acid is one of the few ingredients recognized by the FDA to treat acne, and is available over the counter in concentrations as high as 2%. Rhonda Allison makes a Body Blemish Bar that contains the ingredient. You can lather it with a loofah or wash cloth and use it to cleanse the affected areas of the body. Another popular product for this is Murad's Acne Body Wash.  Before I discovered Rhonda Allison, I had my husband use this, and he saw fantastic results.

Ingrown hairs and razor bumps on the bikini line, underarms, legs, etc- Once again, exfoliation is (one of) the key(s). Salicylic acid is great for this because it is an anti-inflammatory. It is chemically related to aspirin, so it helps reduce redness and swelling, while exfoliating the follicle so the hair does not become trapped. In this way it can help both prevent new bumps from forming, while treating those that are already present. An exfoliating body wash may be enough, but if it isn't, try a product like PFB Vanish. It is available at norris of houston and many other fine spas. It does contain a little bit of alcohol, for its antiseptic properties, so when I use it, it often stings just a little. It's convenient because it comes in a roller-ball, so you don't have to get goop all over your fingers, or find a cotton ball to use for application. I use it on my legs and underarms after shaving or waxing. My underarms are VERY sensitive and always get red, itchy, and irritated if I don't use this. I have tried other products like TendSkin and NoBump (which in my opinion are almost the exact same product as eachother) and did not get results from them. Plus, in my opinion, they stung a lot more, and were not in the roller ball. I didn't mind Prince Reigns Ingrown Hair Serum, but I ended up not using it consistently because I didn't like the texture of it, and how long it needed to dry (especially if I used it on my bikini area---I just wanted to put my underwear back on and move on with my life). According to their website, however, it is a personal favorite of Oprah's and of Gisele Bundchen's.

Smooth it on out

Two somewhat controversial maladies are cellulite and stretch marks. It is my opinion that some products can reduce the appearance of these, but the results are limited.  To prevent stretch marks from occurring during times of weight fluctuation it is advisable to use a moisturizing serum containing vitamin E, which helps the skin to repair, and aids the skin's elasticity.  After stretch marks have already formed, exfoliation may help reduce the appearance, but results are typically cumulative, and do take time to notice. You may need several treatments (microdermabrasion, chemical peels) and diligent home care to see noticeable results. Some lasers tout dramatic results; I do not know anyone personally who has tried this, and therefor cannot say definitively that they work.

Cellulite is said to benefit from from stimulation. Coffee extract, and caffeine in general are common ingredients found in products aimed at improving its uneven appearance. Treatments that are helpful can involve vigorous massage that helps physically break apart the deposits so that they lay more smoothly, firming LED (Light Emitting Diode) treatments, and endermologie. norris of houston offers a treatment that incorporates a half hour cellulite-break down massage with a massage therapist, followed by a half hour with an esthetician, including Mintopia exfoliating wash (to cleanse and invigorate), Rhonda Allison's Bamboo Scrub (to smooth and further stimulate), a red LED therapy application (to firm), and finally a finishing application of Rhonda Allison's Peptide Spritz (from her body line---which takes advantage of coffee extract) and Exotica Rhodiola Body Lotion.

In addition to products and treatments, it is recommended to consider healthy methods of weight loss, low sodium diets, and detoxification to further reduce the appearance of cellulite.  Keep in mind that many people with fantastic bodies, including top model Tyra Banks have cellulite. And to some extent, it may be something you can learn to love about yourself.

I personally have been using the peptide spritz for a couple of weeks; I have not had any treatments done, am in the process of losing weight, and do have a low-sodium diet. I did not take a "before" picture to make comparisons with, but so far, I have not noticed an improvement in my cellulite.  I do however, think my skin feels much softer and smoother. It has also been an excellent hydrator on my chest and arms. Although I do not suffer from dry crepey skin, I have also seen it work well on clients with this problem, especially on the neck, chest, shoulders, and arms.

Protect and Prevent

If you do not currently have thin, crepey skin, or uneven pigmentation, it will save you a LOT of trouble, if you prevent it from occuring by protecting yourself with a quality sunscreen. If you already have any of these conditions, know that it is still helpful to prevent it from worsening and to protect yourself from skin cancer. Also be advised that with many lightening ingredients (like Kojic acid, Azaelic acid, Retinol, and Hydroquinone)---it is imperitive that you use a sunscreen, since they may make your skin more susceptible to burn, and can cause pigmentation to actually worsen when exposed to the sun without protection.

None of us are perfect

We all have flaws--not all of us have the time or money to fix them all.  Part of beauty is confidence, own up to it, know that you are beautiful, and you will be beautiful

Keeping you beautiful (and smooth) one post at a time,

Kate Block

*The products I recommend in this and other blog posts are products I have personally experienced and/or am very familiar with, and am comfortable recommending. If you do not have access to Rhonda Allison's products, I encourage you to find products with similar goals and ingredients. If you have access to an ingredient list of a product you think may be comparable, I would be happy to give you my thoughts on it!

Taking Care of Your Skin at Home

Solving the puzzle is a cinch if you find all the edges first.

It is estimated 40,000-plus cosmetic and skin care products in the U.S. alone are competing for your attention and money. There are so many product lines out there, it can get confusing about what sorts of products you should buy, and if they are even necessary.

The whole thing can seem like a 10,000 piece puzzle, and a lot of factors should be considered when choosing a line, or even more specifically, a good product.

Luckily, if you see an esthetician for skin treatments on a regular basis (or even on a not-so-regular basis) he or she can help make it a little easier. A licensed esthetician should be well trained on product formulation, cosmetic chemistry, and cosmetic ingredients. Not only that, but hopefully they have attended classes and seminars about the particular product line they use and sell. 

It is helpful if you are open and honest with your esthetician about what you currently use, and how often you really use it. If you like, it can be helpful to bring in the products you are currently using--since you now know how many competing brands are out there, it's understandable that he or she may not be familiar with each one, let alone the ingredients each of them employ and whether or not it is a "bad" or "good" choice.  I, personally, would never tell a client to discontinue use of a product I knew was capable of providing the results they need. If I don't have the bottle on hand, though, I will offer recommendations for the products I sell, because I do know what ingredients are used, and how I can expect it to work. 

When describing your current routine, don't forget to mention any topical prescriptions you use (Retin-A, Differin, Oracea or even Vaniqa, for instance). If you use an exfoliant or a mask a couple of times a week, or even just occasionally, try to remember to mention that too. Including the brand names can help too, but knowing if there are any active ingredients like Retinol, Salicylic Acid, Glycolic Acid, or Benzyl Peroxide is especially helpful. You can also use descriptive words like a "creamy cleanser" or a "foaming cleanser" and a "light moisturizer".

Are you a low-maintenance kinda person? That's okay! If a client says "I wash my face in the morning and use a sunscreen. At night, I try to wash my face, but I don't always remember, and I usually use a moisturizer"....honestly that's pretty good! I use several products at home--but sometimes I'm lazy or I "forget" to wash my face too! it's okay! But knowing how many products you have in your rotation and honestly how often you use it, will help me develop a plan for you that isn't overwhelming. If you typically would only use three products (in this case, a cleanser, sunscreen, and moisturizer)---I wouldn't want to recommend six: because no matter how great they may be for skin, I know you probably wouldn't stick to the regimen, so you wouldn't get the transforming results it is capable of.

So let's say I recommend a regimen that is manageable for you: I know I said it's okay if you forget occasionally, and it is. HOWEVER, (and this is a pretty big however), consistency is key.  Just like dieting, if you follow the rules 99--or even 90% of the time, the other 1-10% probably won't hurt...at least not too much. But you are going to get more predictable, reliable results if you follow your regimen as closely as possible. 

When it comes to washing your face at night--do you really forget? If you brush your teeth at night, your cleanser is probably right in front of you. Is laziness or "time" the issue? You could be a busy mom, have work really early in the morning, or just have gotten in at 3:00 a.m., but how hard is it to pull your hair off your face, and take literally one minute to wash your face? Even if you don't do anything else (tone, moisturize, eye cream) at least you've gotten off all (or at least most of) the pollution, oil, sweat, and makeup that has been clinging to your face all day; so while you are sleeping your body has a chance to breathe, and re-generate properly. And if taking that time really is too much to ask of you--do what I did for awhile in college--stash some makeup wipes or cleansing cloths on your bedside table. You have no excuse, if you can reach over, grab a wipe, and cleanse your face all without moving from your comfy bed. 

Puzzles are easier and so much more fun if you let someone help you.

So you're not the "spa-type" and you want to buy something from the drug or grocery store. You think of yourself as a beauty-industry-savvy person, and you don't want to spend a ton of money on expensive products that you're not sure will even work. I understand. There ARE good products out there at the drug store and at the grocery store, but I don't know their lines as well as I know the ones I work with every day. You can get good-quality products if you know your ingredients, and I promise to write an entry explaining a bit more about that soon.  

Get Spa-savvy. I think that unless you want to take the time to educate yourself on cosmetic ingredients and product formulation, it is wisest to schedule a facial at a reputable spa--just one for now--and have a good consultation with your esthetician. He or she should be pleased that you want product recommendations. You can choose the cheapest, quickest facial---a good esthetician does not need an hour to determine what kind of skin you have. 

Hopefully you will have a smart, honest esthetician who really wants to help you.  If it seems like he or she is overselling and recommending more than you really need, know that you can select just one or two products (or none at all).  I generally don't think it's a good idea to start several new products at once anyway. So if you already have a decent cleanser and a moisturizer you're happy with, perhaps you may just try the exfoliant. Have him or her write down the names of the other products. You can come back for them later if you decide.  

I prefer to start gradually adding new products to a regimen for a few reasons. First, if the product contains an ingredient to which you have an allergy, it is easy to pinpoint the culprit, and eliminate it (if you added six products all at once, you would have to slowly discontinue using them each one at a time, until you figure out which one caused it). Second, on the opposite end of the spectrum, if you notice dramatic improvement with a product, you know exactly which product is responsible for that too! 

Yes, sometimes products sold in spas can be expensive--but not always as expensive as you may think. At norris of houston we use two brands, PCA, and Rhonda Allison. They both are great for different reasons. I happen to prefer Rhonda Allison's products in most cases, which luckily, is also the most inexpensive of the two brands. Cleansers typically run around $27, I find that bottle can last 2-3 months. Exfoliants in the same line run about $40, but I wouldn't use it every day. Also, because there is a high concentration of quality ingredients I know I don't have to use a lot to get good results, and I would only use it 1-3x a week so I know this tube will last me much longer. Probably 4-6 months. Moisturizers can really get expensive, especially those with top of the line anti-aging ingredients--let's say I choose one that's $37 and it lasts me 1&1/2 months.  

That's $97 on products...but what is it in the grand scheme of things?  Less than an iPhone. Cheaper than the designer sun-glasses you wanted, in fact you've probably spent more than this on an outfit you planned on wearing just for one night--like a big date, a friend's wedding, or (oh God!) prom--and you've probably done it more than once. Yet this is still significantly cheaper than some "luxury" brands would charge for a similar amount of product with equally as good ingredients. The money these companies make goes back into product development and research---not into multi-million marketing campaigns featuring television commercials and full-color ads in Vogue.

And in the long run--it may actually be cheaper than buying your "cheap" over-the-counter goods. By consulting with a professional, there is less room for trial and error. Think back in your past, or even look in your medicine cabinet! How many products have you tried and never finished? You stopped using it because it just wasn't delivering what it promised.  Maybe it even COULD have delivered, but you weren't using it exactly as it was intended--and a professional could've helped you get the most out of it. All that wasted product adds up to dollars spent--and wasted. And as I mentioned before, by having the confidence that these companies are investing more in high-quality ingredients and research, instead of advertisements, you can maybe use a little less than you typically would, wasting less, and still getting amazing results. All this makes your dollar stretch a little further. 

That said, estheticians--myself included--are not perfect. Everyone's skin re-acts a little differently, and a product I think may be the best fit for you, may not be. You could have a sensitivity to an ingredient, or your skin could be a little more resistant than others. But the fact of the matter is, I can help make informed decisions and recommendations and guide you more definitively in the right direction.  Plus many spas, including Norris, are willing to make exchanges or returns if a product was really unsatisfying. 

Finding the missing piece of the puzzle

My business is providing services--particularly facials, but even I will tell you, that my facial won't do much for you if you're not taking care of your skin at home. You could be the "perfect" client and come to see me every four weeks but you could still have less-than-desirable skin.  I like to use a few analogies for this. 

Getting facials is like going to the dentist. I can give you a deep clean, I can check to make sure everything is as it should be, and can correct slightly more severe problems that you probably couldn't at home--but if you don't brush your teeth (or in this case cleanse your skin) what I do isn't going to make much of a difference.

If that one didn't work for you, think of it this way:

Let's say you hired a personal trainer and went to the gym. You went and he gave you the most intense workout of your life. You sweated, you cried, and the next day your muscles burned. But if you never went and worked out again---do you think you'd get the results you wanted?  Absolutely not. And you know that walking back and forth to the refrigerator doesn't count as exercise either. 

Now you know that if you skip brushing your teeth one night (tsk tsk!) your dentist probably won't notice, and it certainly won't earn you a cavity, but make sure that you usually stick to your plan, and you'll be in good shape. 

Even with the direction of an esthetician, you will need to be patient. It can take several weeks for you to begin noticing significant changes in your skin.

Once you do start noticing changes, don't be fooled--the products are helping your skin to look that great---even I have made the mistake of thinking "I don't need to use this anymore, my skin looks great!" and after slacking off or discontinuing its use I realize just how much it really helped. 

Keeping you beautiful (and glowing) one post at a time,
Kate Block 

Please take just a minute to help me decide what to post about next!

The Great Debate: Threading vs. Waxing

Threading in a nutshell...

Threading is a method of hair removal which uses thread to twist around each hair to be removed, and pull it completely from the follicle. The method is said to have originated in Turkey or Iran, and is still popular in the middle east and India today. Threading is most commonly used to remove superfluous hair on the face--typically the cheeks, chin, lip, and eyebrow. There are many techniques--the most common of which, the thread is held in the practitioner's mouth (usually by the teeth) and the other side is held by hand. 

For sanitary reasons, I use a simple loop of thread with about 10-15 twists in the middle. I use my index finger and thumb of each hand (and not my mouth!) to move the twists across the skin. I choose to use 100% cotton unfinished thread--I feel this is less likely to cause reactions to the skin.

Results of threading last just as long as waxing, and I charge the same price for waxing or threading, even though threading requires somewhat more time and technical skill.

Of course, like anything else, threading has it's pros and cons.

Reasons people often choose threading over waxing.

• Waxing has the potential to burn the skin, leaving blisters and possibly scars.
• Wax residue, or occasionally the products used to remove the wax residue, can sometimes cause skin irritations (tiny bumps that often look like acne) Since threading requires no products, it is less likely that the skin can become inflamed. (I do, however, ask if you would like me to apply a 1% Hydrocortisone cream that will help soothe the skin after--and the choice is always up to you.)
• Unlike waxing, threading does not have the possibility of lifting, tearing, or over-exfoliating the skin.
• It is safe for people using strong medications such as Accutane, Renova, Tazorac, Differin, Retin-A, etcetera. or also for those who have particularly dry skin, or have gotten a little too much sun recently.
• Many are convinced that threading is more precise, and can achieve a better shape.
• Often, clients have reported that their skin appears less red immediately after threading (compared to immediately after waxing) and the redness typically seems to subside more quickly.
• There is no possibility for double dipping; sanitation for this procedure is as easy as the practitioner washing his or her hands and using a new piece of thread for each client.

Reasons people stick with waxing:

• Threading takes longer than waxing. Not much longer, but because the hairs are removed more gradually (instead of a few quick pulls) many feel it hurts more than waxing. Keep in mind that I do have a product with 2% Lidocaine I can apply beforehand that clients report helps take the edge off.
• Rolling the thread against the skin, does create friction, and occasionally with slack skin, pinching can occur. Both of these can add to the discomfort level.
• Just like when you take time to tweeze your eyebrows at home, your eyes may water, and you may wind up sneezing. 

In my opinion the pros outweigh the cons, and I try my best to convert waxing clients to threading. 

If you decide to stick to waxing, however, take comfort in knowing that I never double dip, I always test the temperature on my wrist before applying it to your skin, and I remove wax residue with an oil-based remover--but then remove the oil-based remover with a light astringent, followed by a soothing hydrocortisone cream.

If you decide to try threading, know that I will use tweezers to remove hairs that were too short to be caught in the thread. Also know, that if you decide, even just part-way through the process that you would prefer waxing---we can always switch from one to the other.

Your hair won't grow back thicker, longer, or darker. Removing hair by waxing, threading, tweezing, or even shaving WILL NOT make your hair grow in darker, or thicker.  Hair color and thickness is determined by genetics, and affected by hormones as we age. It doesn't make sense that by cutting the hair at the surface or removing it from the follicle, it would change your genetics and the way your hair grows. Shaving can make hair feel more coarse because it cuts the naturally tapered end off of the hair; when it grows back out, it feels prickly because it was cut straight across, usually at the widest part of the hair. When hair is removed from the root, though, it must grow back completely, meaning the hair that replaces it will naturally have a tapered edge, making it feel softer and finer. If you know someone who insists that after waxing her lip, her hair grew back darker, unfortunately, it is probably a change based on fluctuation of hormones or medication. Many people experience different hair growth during pregnancy, after childbirth, during menopause, or while taking birth control. It is also a somewhat common side-effect to many prescription medications for serious illnesses, or after radiation therapy.

For the best results, get on a hair removal regimen. Many people tout waxing as leaving them bare for weeks or sometimes even months. This can be true, but won't be if you're not on a regular regimen. Your hair grows in different stages. When you have your eyebrows done, you have hair that is visible to be removed---some hair could have just fallen out yesterday on its own, and some could be growing under the surface ready to peek out---in fact it very well may peek out the next day! This doesn't mean your threading or waxing specialist did anything wrong, it's just how it works! But if you go ahead and tweeze that hair between appointments you will keep it growing on a different schedule, since it's unlikely it will grow back in before your next session.  I recommend you DO NOT touch up your eyebrows between appointments. Leave the strays. I know it might just drive you nuts, but if you come back in the recommended 2-3 weeks for another appointment, more of your hairs will be removed at once. After a few sessions of doing this, it will seem like it takes longer for hair to grow back between appointments, and it will also seem like they all grow back, just before you're ready for your next appointment. If getting these services done professionally all the time is too expensive, don't despair! Just make the appointments at home with yourself! Set "appointments" and stick with them---do not be tempted to stray from your regimen, or you'll always have a few strays you're obsessing over...

For facial hair, I recommend appointments every 2-3 weeks depending on how quickly your hair grows. For body hair, I recommend appointments every 4-6 weeks depending on how quickly your hair grows.

Most spas (including mine) do allow you to schedule several appointments in advance, and norris of houston always calls to confirm your appointment the day before.

Please note, that I do not offer threading for removal of body hair, with the exception of a basic bikini line. Other areas of the body are far too tedious; it would take too long for me, and it would be too painful and expensive for you.

Use all the tools in your box. If you are really self-conscious because of excess hair on your cheeks, chin, or lip talk to your doctor. You could be a candidate for prescription Vaniqa. It is a topical medication that reduces hair growth. It is recommended only for use by women on the face, and results are not permanent, they only last for as long as you are using the product. Be forewarned that it can be expensive, and results do vary.


Keeping you beautiful (and bare) one post at a time,
Kate Block