Thursday, September 23, 2010

Your Skin Doesn't Stop Below Your Neck: Tips for Great Skin Head to Toe

There was a tie between the second and third options in the poll, so I just picked one to do first.  Next week I will discuss Acne, and the week after, product formulation & ingredients.


There are so many body woes! Hopefully I'll be able to cover most of the common ones.

Tell your face to share!
If you have a chest with sunspots and a crepey texture, it can really add on the years. Many people take the time and effort to care for the skin on their face, and skip the rest of their bodies. Take a little extra product and just a few extra seconds to spread your serums, moisturizers, and sunscreens down a little farther. Most people know to include their necks in their routine, but you don't have to stop once you reach the collar bones. I recommend covering the chest down to the breastbone. You may even want to cover the breast tissue to keep the skin there firm and supple (especially if you like to wear more revealing tops). It also isn't a bad idea to cover the tops of the shoulders.

I know what you may be thinking: My facial products are expensive! I don't want to waste it! I'll go through so much more this way!   That's true. But why is your face worth it, and your body isn't? We're not all made of money, but when you think of how much money is spent on high-end luxury beauty products and services, plastic surgeries, and laser treatments, prevention is usually much more cost-effective.

I get it though, if you don't want to "waste" your facial products on your body, try looking for excellent body care products. It doesn't make sense to me to spend good money on the products you use on your face, only to skimp on your body.

Faces are treated to products with cutting edge ingredients, even if you don't know a lot about skincare, you've probably heard of peptides, antioxidants, maybe even Epidermal Growth Factor. These are all fantastic representations of technological advancements in the beauty industry---but rarely are these found in body care products.  But now that you know to look for them, you can.

I know I mention the line a lot, but it's because I truly feel it's one of the best out there--Rhonda Allison-- has developed a body line that incorporates many of the same ingredients used in facial care products.  It does make the products more expensive than you may be used to spending, but when you think about your willingness to spend even just $35 on a moisturizer for your face, it makes sense to pay $70 on just one of these products, just because the size of the container is likely 2-3 times the size of your facial moisturizer. You're paying for more product. I know it can still be a hard pill to swallow if you're only used to paying $20 for a body moisturizer: but that's where you come in---you decide what's right for you. Is it worth it to know that you're doing something better for your skin, and invest in something more expensive? Is it something that you can rotate in (buy the $20 moisturizer now, buy the $70 the next time you need one, etc.)? Can you buy both and mix one pump of each together to make the more expensive one last longer, but still have some of the benefits of the more cutting edge ingredients?

exfoliate more, moisturize less.
It is great to be in the habit of moisturizing your skin, but unfortunately you won't be doing much if your skin can't absorb it. By regularly exfoliating your skin, you are keeping your follicles open so they can absorb moisturizers better, you are stimulating for newer, healthier cells to replace the ones you have sloughed off, all while making the texture of your skin more soft and smooth.

I prefer enzymes and mild acid exfoliation over scrubs.  I don't mind scrubs, and they can do a decent job; but they can only be massaged on the surface of the skin and literally knock off the skin cells there. Natural enzymes and mild acids are so small they can actually penetrate into the follicle, and therefor exfoliate deeper.

Try looking for a shower gel that contains ingredients like papaya enzymes (papain) pineapple enzymes (bromelain), pumpkin enzymes, Azaelic Acid, Lactic Acid, or Salicylic Acid. Rhonda Allison makes two shower gels--one called Mintopia, uses Lactic Acid to exfoliate and Menthol to stimulate; The Fruit Enzyme Wash uses kiwi, papaya, mango, vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid), and Malic Acid. (Side note--although I love Mintopia, and it is gentle enough for your nether-regions...I wouldn't recommend using it or any other product containing Menthol there unless you like a cooling tingly sensation down there)

Cleopatra was on to something with her milk baths. She was known for having soft, beautiful skin. It's not because milk was a moisturizer--it's because it was an exfoliant. The lactic acid which naturally occurs in milk smoothed her skin, keeping it soft and glowing.Try switching to a nice, exfoliating body wash and using a  regular sunscreen, and you may be able to even skip the fancy moisturizers for awhile (or at least use them less often).

Some ingredients like shea butter and cocoa butter are fantastic in small quantities--they are oils that have higher melting points, so at room temperature they are thick, and form an occlusion on the skin (a barrier that prevents moisture from evaporating). This can be helpful, especially if the product also contains naturally moisturizing ingredients like sorbitol, glycerine, and hyaluronic acid. If, however, there is too much shea or cocoa butter in the formula, your body may continue producing dry skin because it relies on you to supply these oils to soften it, instead of producing its own oil. I like moisturizers like the Exotica Rhodiola Body Lotion by Rhonda Allison, which incorporates peptides and antioxidants traditionally only found in moisturizers formulated for the face. It is lightly scented, absorbs well, and leaves the skin with a non-sticky finish.

Leave the "Chicken Bumps" for the Chickens
There are all sorts of unsightly bumps that can pop up on the body. Luckily most of them can be resolved with various types of exfoliation. These are the most common:

small, rough bumps that look like goosebumps on the back of the upper arms- these are technically called keratosis pilaris. It is basically a skin condition where the follicle is not expelling used skin cells properly, so it becomes clogged and produces a tiny bump. it can be remedied by exfoliation. enzyme or chemical exfoliation is best for remedying these because scrubs can sometimes be too irritating for the condition. If using an exfoliating shower gel regularly doesn't help clear it up, Rhonda Allison's Ultra Exfolee is an exfoliating cream that can be applied and should help alleviate the condition. A common product on the market, designed with this particular condition in mind is KP Duty by Dermadoctor.

breakouts on your body: typically the back, thighs, chest, etc- I'd recommend using an exfoliating cleansing product designed for the body with Salicylic acid. Salicylic acid is one of the few ingredients recognized by the FDA to treat acne, and is available over the counter in concentrations as high as 2%. Rhonda Allison makes a Body Blemish Bar that contains the ingredient. You can lather it with a loofah or wash cloth and use it to cleanse the affected areas of the body. Another popular product for this is Murad's Acne Body Wash.  Before I discovered Rhonda Allison, I had my husband use this, and he saw fantastic results.

Ingrown hairs and razor bumps on the bikini line, underarms, legs, etc- Once again, exfoliation is (one of) the key(s). Salicylic acid is great for this because it is an anti-inflammatory. It is chemically related to aspirin, so it helps reduce redness and swelling, while exfoliating the follicle so the hair does not become trapped. In this way it can help both prevent new bumps from forming, while treating those that are already present. An exfoliating body wash may be enough, but if it isn't, try a product like PFB Vanish. It is available at norris of houston and many other fine spas. It does contain a little bit of alcohol, for its antiseptic properties, so when I use it, it often stings just a little. It's convenient because it comes in a roller-ball, so you don't have to get goop all over your fingers, or find a cotton ball to use for application. I use it on my legs and underarms after shaving or waxing. My underarms are VERY sensitive and always get red, itchy, and irritated if I don't use this. I have tried other products like TendSkin and NoBump (which in my opinion are almost the exact same product as eachother) and did not get results from them. Plus, in my opinion, they stung a lot more, and were not in the roller ball. I didn't mind Prince Reigns Ingrown Hair Serum, but I ended up not using it consistently because I didn't like the texture of it, and how long it needed to dry (especially if I used it on my bikini area---I just wanted to put my underwear back on and move on with my life). According to their website, however, it is a personal favorite of Oprah's and of Gisele Bundchen's.

Smooth it on out
Two somewhat controversial maladies are cellulite and stretch marks. It is my opinion that some products can reduce the appearance of these, but the results are limited.  To prevent stretch marks from occurring during times of weight fluctuation it is advisable to use a moisturizing serum containing vitamin E, which helps the skin to repair, and aids the skin's elasticity.  After stretch marks have already formed, exfoliation may help reduce the appearance, but results are typically cumulative, and do take time to notice. You may need several treatments (microdermabrasion, chemical peels) and diligent home care to see noticeable results. Some lasers tout dramatic results; I do not know anyone personally who has tried this, and therefor cannot say definitively that they work.

Cellulite is said to benefit from from stimulation. Coffee extract, and caffeine in general are common ingredients found in products aimed at improving its uneven appearance. Treatments that are helpful can involve vigorous massage that helps physically break apart the deposits so that they lay more smoothly, firming LED (Light Emitting Diode) treatments, and endermologie. norris of houston offers a treatment that incorporates a half hour cellulite-break down massage with a massage therapist, followed by a half hour with an esthetician, including Mintopia exfoliating wash (to cleanse and invigorate), Rhonda Allison's Bamboo Scrub (to smooth and further stimulate), a red LED therapy application (to firm), and finally a finishing application of Rhonda Allison's Peptide Spritz (from her body line---which takes advantage of coffee extract) and Exotica Rhodiola Body Lotion.

In addition to products and treatments, it is recommended to consider healthy methods of weight loss, low sodium diets, and detoxification to further reduce the appearance of cellulite.  Keep in mind that many people with fantastic bodies, including top model Tyra Banks have cellulite. And to some extent, it may be something you can learn to love about yourself.

I personally have been using the peptide spritz for a couple of weeks; I have not had any treatments done, am in the process of losing weight, and do have a low-sodium diet. I did not take a "before" picture to make comparisons with, but so far, I have not noticed an improvement in my cellulite.  I do however, think my skin feels much softer and smoother. It has also been an excellent hydrator on my chest and arms. Although I do not suffer from dry crepey skin, I have also seen it work well on clients with this problem, especially on the neck, chest, shoulders, and arms.

Protect and Prevent
If you do not currently have thin, crepey skin, or uneven pigmentation, it will save you a LOT of trouble, if you prevent it from occuring by protecting yourself with a quality sunscreen. If you already have any of these conditions, know that it is still helpful to prevent it from worsening and to protect yourself from skin cancer. Also be advised that with many lightening ingredients (like Kojic acid, Azaelic acid, Retinol, and Hydroquinone)---it is imperitive that you use a sunscreen, since they may make your skin more susceptible to burn, and can cause pigmentation to actually worsen when exposed to the sun without protection.

None of us are perfect
We all have flaws--not all of us have the time or money to fix them all.  Part of beauty is confidence, own up to it, know that you are beautiful, and you will be beautiful
Keeping you beautiful (and smooth) one post at a time,
Kate Block
*The products I recommend in this and other blog posts are products I have personally experienced and/or am very familiar with, and am comfortable recommending. If you do not have access to Rhonda Allison's products, I encourage you to find products with similar goals and ingredients. If you have access to an ingredient list of a product you think may be comparable, I would be happy to give you my thoughts on it!

2 comments:

  1. Great post, Kate! Thanks!

    I have a couple questions that I really do not know the answer to (maybe it is just the scientist in me): If you mix two different products together, is it possible/probable that a chemical reaction will occur that will change the effectiveness of a product?

    Also, I know that it is possible to exfoliate too much (and I might just do that). How often is too much? Are there signs to look for on my skin that would tell me that I am doing it too often? I have been exfoliating my face about every other day with a cleanser that contains sea salt (Lush- "Ocean Salt" in case you want to look it up online for the ingredient list), and I have seen great results over the past couple of months. Let me know your expert opinion :).

    I want to give some advice on reducing cellulite that I learned a few years ago from the book "Gorgeously Green" by Sophie Uliano. I have also read it from other sources over the years as well. She mentioned in her book that it is common for women in Europe to use a technique every day called "dry brushing" to help remove cellulite. I had to give it a try! I use a brush with a long handle and bush it over my entire body (especially areas with cellulite) with long, circular strokes before I enter the shower every morning. Since I have been doing this, I have noticed a great reduction in the amount of cellulite! The dry brushing breaks down the toxin deposits (stored as cellulite), and then the toxins are removed from your body by the many organs in your body that aid in detoxification. Remember to drink plenty of water daily to aid in this detoxification process. There are many other benefits to dry brushing, but I don't want to basically write another blog post! Maybe I will include this in my blog when I get it started :)!

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  2. Hey, Lesley! Thanks for the feedback! I have heard about dry brushing as well, but had not heard from anyone first-hand about their results in regards to cellulite--thanks for the tip! skin brushing is also a fabulous way to exfoliate the entire body.

    In answer to your question---yes it IS possible to over-exfoliate. People who exfoliate too aggressively or too often may experience prolonged redness or even raw-looking skin, it can also increase your sensitivity causing you to react adversely to products you wouldn't have otherwise.

    After looking at the ingredients in the product you mentioned, I think that you may be using it a little too often. If you like exfoliating as often as you are, I would try something with a mild acid or enzyme that will exfoliate your skin a little more gently, and will likely be a little more effective for you. The product you chose relies solely on the grit of the salt to scrub away any skin cells, it's certainly not a bad product, but there are several I would choose over it. This particular scrub will likely be good for skins that tend to get dry since it has oils like coconut, avocado, and lanolin in it. It also may be a little too much for sensitive skin because it has alcohol, artificial preservatives, color, and perfume. ( a lot of people aren't sensitive to those things, but some people are and avoid products based on that). If you want to keep using this product, I would recommend exfoliating about 2 times a week, occasionally 3 times at the very most.

    I saw the listing for the ingredients here in case you were curious:
    http://www.lushusa.com/shop/products/face/cleansers/ocean-salt

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